Every summer, I help out at a small but formal arts fundraiser in Nantucket. Despite not being a fashion event, it draws a fashionable, if not well-heeled, crowd. Five years ago, I noticed several women channeling their inner Catherine Deneuve—or at least Catherine Deneuve’s wrist. From Chopard to Cartier, oval watches dominated. At the very same event this year, the gents followed. It was a sea of oval and squircle cases on suntanned wrists, the driving tide being the Patek Philippe Ellipse.
Perhaps this is a natural evolution of the recent shape watch craze. Regardless, I have two thoughts on the matter. First, I welcome a touch of Art Deco glamour in men’s style. Oval or ellipse-shaped timepieces are associated with the Roaring ‘20s, with style français, but not exclusively. They steer close enough to convention that trend-resistant guys can also pull them off. Second, it was the non-Pateks that grabbed my attention most at the party. As such, I hope the following watches will grab yours.
Whether you want something more unique or more affordable, here are some terrific “Ellipse” timepieces that aren’t from Patek Phillipe.
Photo via Serica
Serica Parade
Some believe that the Patek Ellipse is overly plain. I fundamentally disagree, but I understand not wanting to spend six digits on something so bare. The Serica Parade is as aesthetically function-forward as the Ellipse; it has a sterility and even industrial quality to it. Yet the Parade’s radial guilloché dial adds so much character without interrupting that practical simplicity. The overall design achieves something akin to making a machine cog look elegant, or imbuing a robot with a soul. Its details are labored over inside and out, from the polished bezel chamfer and beveled sapphire to the Côtes de Genève finishing on the movement. This kind of purity of form can go from a construction site to a formal banquet.
Photo via Mouawad
Mouawad Grande Ellipse Sport Ville
Beirut-born, family-owned Mouawad gives the usually dressy ellipse silhouette a sporty remix. Each model in the Grande Ellipse line balances luxurious class with muscle, not unlike the Patek Nautilus—from the racer-ready GPHG-nominated Sport Chrono to the boardroom-perfect rose gold Royale. The Ellipse Sport Ville (also GPHG-nominated) sits smack dab in the middle of these two, its silver galvanic dial and blue calf leather strap tempered by a multi-surface construction and exposed screws. Even the movement is an objet d’art. Check out the exhibition caseback to admire the heart-shaped M design carved into the gold rotor.
Photo via Yahoo Japan
Seiko Dolce Ellipse
Seiko launched its Dolce dress watch subline in the ‘80s. It was marketed primarily in Japan because Westerners didn’t typically turn to Seiko for their eveningwear needs at the time. Still, it’s easy to find neo-vintage Dolce ellipse watches on the secondary market. The dial on the 6030-5410 looks like swanky wallpapered gold leaf, framed by a cross-hatched, subtly incongruous bezel. From a purely visual perspective, I actually find this timepiece more compelling than the Patek Ellipse. There’s just so much more movement and texture despite its minimalism. Plus, it’s about 1/200th the price.
Photo via Cartier
Cartier Baignoire Quartz
The Cartier Baignoire’s graceful lines are inspired by porcelain clawfoot bathtubs, as well as the stately oval-shaped boxes at opera houses. This gives it a sense of dignified formality and leisurely luxuriation: a flex straight out of The Age of Innocence. Moreover, you can find the Baignoire in an entry-level quartz variation. Unlike Patek Philippe, Cartier isn’t allergic to broader appeal. There’s definitely something classy about a luxury brand that trusts its audience’s interest in taste over exclusivity.
Photo via Bulova
Bulova Super Seville
An ellipse-shaped watch with a fluted bezel and an integrated bracelet? Sign me up. Okay, so the case and dial are technically squircle-shaped. But that’s all the more reason to go for it instead of, or even in addition to, a Patek Ellipse or Rolex Datejust. This modern Bulova is inspired by my favorite Day-Date alternative, the vintage Super Seville. It’s a mix of ‘70s glam and ‘80s Wall Street in a thoroughly modern configuration. The Super Seville runs on Bulova’s Precisionist movement, which is accurate within seconds a year, and even comes in stone dial variations, which are collaborations with the Complecto watch community.
Photo via Universal Genève
Universal Genève White Shadow
We’ve yet to see what Breitling will do with its upcoming Universal Genève relaunch, but I hope the Shadow series is revived. The White Shadow model comes in a shape variation similar to the Patek Ellipse. However, this quiet luxury timekeeper is a heck of a conversation piece, independent of that comparison. It’s designed by Gerald Genta, arguably the greatest watchmaker of all time. During the ‘60s and ‘70s, a gauntlet was thrown down in the horology world: Who can make the thinnest automatic movement? The White Shadow’s micro-rotor allowed for calibers as slender as 2.5 millimeters, resulting in one of the era’s slimmest watches ever.
Photo via Yema
Yema Granvelle
Another tastefully slim, micro-rotor-powered timepiece, the Yema Granvelle’s elliptical case is inspired by the arches of Granvelle Palace in France’s watchmaking capital, Besançon. This watch is as French as it gets, with even the Swiss components of the movement hailing just 40 miles from Yema’s Morteau workshop. As you’d expect from the world’s style capital, this guy is handsome and distinct. The design is intelligent, deceivingly simple, and makes geometry look chic. Impeccable concentric patterns and ellipses within ellipses are partnered with more ornamental elements, like dauphin hands and dagger indices. It’s the kind of watch that catches eyes without begging for attention.
Photo via Omega
Vintage Omega “Ellipses”
What hasn’t Omega done? If you’re looking for a Swiss watch that’s like the Patek Ellipse (but not), I highly recommend rummaging through Omega’s vintage offerings. Just search “Omega Ellipse” in the eBays and Chrono24s of the world, and you’ll find plenty of fun variety, particularly within the De Ville family. There are watches that are more oval in shape, more elliptical, and everything in between. There are matte, sunburst, and honeycomb dials framed in silver, gold, or rose gold cases, adorned with Roman numerals, batons, or gemsets. And with prices ranging from below $300 to well over $5,000, you can go treasure hunting with any budget in mind.
