Venice is a fine city for melancholy, my mood when I drifted in at the end of a two-week stint in Italy. I spent the first week chasing an ill-starred romance; the second, licking my wounds. But as the poets remind us, broken hearts feel beauty more keenly—and Venice is a feast for the senses. Every gondola ride, stroll, and hotel window reveals masterpieces of art and architecture, water sparkling with sunlight, and riotous colors everywhere. Marveling at the façade of St. Mark’s Basilica and the Titian paintings in the Gallerie dell’Accademia, I understood why Lord Byron turned to Venice for spiritual balm. And if the extravaganza of aesthetic marvels doesn’t lift your spirits, just head to the nearest bacaro—bars alive with sprezzatura, camaraderie, and good, inexpensive heartache medication.
A glittering metropolis rising out of the water, Venice’s very existence is miraculous. Its original settlers were likely 5th-century refugees who sought shelter on the islands of the lagoon during the barbarian invasions of the Huns and later the Lombards. These displaced communities would eventually forge one of the world’s most sophisticated civilizations and far-reaching maritime empires. As the grand emporium of the Mediterranean, Venice served as a gateway between Europe and Islamic civilizations for centuries. It’s a bastion of Catholicism but a cosmopolitan entrepot that hasn’t quite decided if it’s Occidental or Oriental. Look no further than seafood cooked with star anise and nutmeg, or the mosque-like domes and slender columns of St. Mark’s Basilica, to feel the profound Eastern influence on Venice’s soul.
So bring your big doge energy, rewatch The Italian Job on the flight, and savor the divine delights of La Serenissima—a city as sublime as a Dante sonnet.
Where to Stay
For lodgings worthy of the grand doge, book a room at the St. Regis Venice, a hotel encompassing five renovated palaces on the Grand Canal. Rooms treat guests to sweeping views of Santa Maria della Salute and San Giorgio Maggiore. The St. Regis Venice has three acclaimed restaurants: Gio’s, The Arts Bar, and a private Italianate Garden. The rooms are elegantly furnished, with luxurious linens, marble bathrooms, and sweeping views of the Grand Canal. St. Regis Venice also features a well-equipped gym and a spa.
I love the social ethos of hostels, but in my mid-thirties, I am less excited about sleeping in dormitories than I was a decade ago. The Generator, a 19th-century grain warehouse retrofitted into a guest house, offers the best of both worlds: a mix of shared rooms for thrifty backpackers and well-furnished private rooms for travelers who want quiet accommodations at a reasonable price. The property is on Giudecca Island, a quick ride on the vaporetto from Venice’s most famous landmarks. The slight distance from the city center grants a welcome respite from the crowds and clamor. With a coffee bar and comfy seating areas, the Generator is also a great place to work.
Where to Explore Art and Culture
Designed by the 16th-century Venetian architect Andrea Palladio, the Gothic Gallerie dell’Accademia is one of Venice’s loftiest temples of art. I was eager to see the masterpieces by Titian and Veronese but dreading the crowds typical of world-famous museums, so I arrived as soon as the museum opened at 9 am. My early morning dedication paid off—the galleries were blissfully empty. Plan to spend at least an hour or two in the museum, and consider paying an additional six euros for an audio guide—a helpful tool in understanding the history, context, and minds behind the artwork.
Any initial visit to Venice should include a few hours strolling in and around Piazza San Marco, the plaza containing iconic Venetian landmarks like St. Mark’s Basilica, the Palace of the Doge, and St. Mark’s Bell Tower. The area has long been the beating heart of Venice—the public gathering place to witness religious festivities, coronations, and public executions. Accessing the iconic buildings like the basilica and ducal palace requires purchasing tickets and braving long lines. The interiors are majestic, but if you’re not up for the hassle, just visit a café in the piazza and soak in the façades over a cappuccino. But keep a close eye on your valuables. Piazza San Marco is notorious for pickpockets.
Whenever out-of-town friends visit New York, I take them on the public ferry. The fare is cheap, the on-boat bar pours local craft beer, and the weather deck offers panoramic views of Manhattan. I figured that Venice’s waterbuses, called vaporetti, would be a similarly affordable way to soak in the city’s spirit—and my hunch was correct. From the Grand Canal, I hopped on a vaporetto to Burano, a serene island about 45 minutes away from Venice. As tranquil as an island off the coast of Maine, Burano is famous for its colorful buildings, lace factories, and risotto di gó—a local seafood and rice dish as beloved as it is challenging to make. Once you arrive in Burano, meander through the village’s serene alleyways, perhaps stopping for gelato, patisserie, or coffee. For dinner, head to Trattoria al Gatto Nero, a family-run restaurant renowned for fresh seafood, Venetian wines, and exemplary risotto di gó.
Where to Eat
Cicchetti, tapas-like plates enjoyed with wine or spritzes, are staples in bacari—Venetian wine bars. Typically, cicchetti consist of a protein like sardines, prosciutto, or whipped cod served atop a slice of crusty bread—light bites that complement a beverage without spoiling the appetite. The selection of cicchetti, usually displayed on platters on the bar, varies by bacaro and even by day, depending on the catch of the day. All’Arco, a family-run bacaro near the Rialto Bridge, is a mainstay for cicchetti, wine, and dazzling views. If you’re fond of amari, order a glass of Select with ice and lemon. The aperitif, emblematic of Venice, is similar to Campari but less astringent.
The menu at Gio’s Restaurant Venice, the flagship restaurant of the St. Regis Venice, blends the refinement of Venetian fare with the rustic flavors of sun-soaked Puglia, home to Gio’s chef de cuisine, Giuseppe Ricci. Gio’s offers three distinct tasting menus, each with an optional wine pairing. Gourmet treats include scallop ceviche, pappardelle laden with frutti di mare, and beef carpaccio. For a more casual meal, the bar menu features pastas, charcuterie, and a burger of Fassona beef—Italy’s answer to Kobe beef. Note that Alessandro, Gio’s bartender-cum-comedian, whips up the best Americano in town—a refreshing cocktail both sweet and bitter. For dessert, order an espresso and Gio’s tiramisu, an indulgence served in an eye-catching gold cup.
Oro, a Michelin-starred restaurant within the opulent Hotel Cipriani, is a love letter to Venice composed by chefs Vania Ghedini and Massimo Bottura, one of Emilia-Romagna’s most legendary culinary figures. As the name suggests, Oro spares no luxury—guests dine beneath Murano chandeliers and a domed ceiling gleaming with gold. Dishes on the seven-course tasting menu showcase rare Venetian ingredients like moeche (local soft-shell crab from the Lagoon) and bruscandoli (wild hops). When the culinary tour-de-force draws to a close, order a glass of Donnafugata Ben Ryé, a luscious dessert wine, and sit on the terrace to admire the swarming stars above Venice’s medieval skyline.
