The dolphins in Hanalei Bay first got our baby to kick. Then it was the majestic honu, those larger-than-life Hawaiian green sea turtles, inching toward the waves on Poipu Beach. After that, a monk seal sunning precariously close to way-too-amateur surfers. The rarer and more endangered the animal, the more active our boy’s feet became. We’d gasp in awe, and he’d start doing leg presses in utero.
The Kauaʻi leg of our babymoon was meant to be dessert after the main course of O‘ahu. But after the third straight morning spotting dolphins from the ocean-view cafe at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay, we telepathically understood that we’d be extending the stay.
The 1, a resplendent wellness resort on the North Shore of Kauaʻi, is all about s-l-o-w luxury. It boasts eco-friendly hospitality, outrageous mountain and ocean views, and the planet’s best ricotta pancakes. It opened its doors in 2023 after a years-long reimagining of the St. Regis Princeville, with the aim of being the destination for a design-minded luxury traveler in Hawai‘i. It’s earned its reputation with a dialed-in experience and sustainability bona fides.
It’s also the coolest place in the state to celebrate a growing family. Around the main infinity pool, there were baby bumps left and right. Hip Aussies stopped us to give us stroller recommendations. Clearly, we’d found pregnancy paradise—the only place to be for parents-to-be.
Here’s what to expect from Hawai‘i’s best couples’ destination.
Courtesy 1 Hotels
Getting There
Plenty of breezy nonstop flights connect the West Coast and Kauaʻi. I’m jealous of you all in Seattle and California.
From New York, it’s less of a breeze. But with the right planning, the adventure can be—dare I say—fun?
Case in point: We cashed in our Chase points for a surprisingly accessible first-class United journey from NYC’s LaGuardia to Honolulu. We booked a trip with two stops, one in Chicago and one in San Francisco. It was a full day of flying, but the new Sapphire Lounge at LGA set us off on the right foot, and the in-flight bubbly and shockingly good Italian food helped the hours pass quickly. After a few days exploring O’ahu (I’ll save that itinerary for another guide), we caught a 45-minute flight to Kauaʻi. On the way back, Economy Plus got us from Kauaʻi to NYC with one late-night SFO stopover.
As for the drive to the hotel, well, this is why sunroofs were invented. The only problem? You’ll want to pull over every five minutes to take in the views.
The lobby garden at the 1 Hotel Hanelei Bay.
Courtesy 1 Hotels
Checking In
The hotel’s welcome experience is worth writing home about. The 1 pays close attention to the sensory experience of entering this space for the first time: the geranium, lavender, and peppermint you smell (thanks to the hotel’s partnership with Bamford); the rum-spiked fresh juices on your tongue; the birdsong and falling water you’ll hear near the lobby garden; the texture and greenery you’ll see. I could go on. Each moment feels thoughtfully, expertly arranged.
Take a moment before getting to your room. You’ll want to walk through the outdoor spaces and soak in the view of the bay in all its psychedelic glory. Yes, that distant cliff is Puff the Magic Dragon himself, snoozing before you.
Valet service at the hotel’s entrance.
Courtesy 1 Hotels
Getting Around
You’ll need a car when you’re there, ideally rented from the Kauaʻi airport. It’s the easiest way to explore the surrounding beaches, the shops in town, and the destinations for prime honu spotting.
But let’s say you want a ride that’s a little more fun. Let’s say… an all-electric premium Audi? The 1 has an Audi test-drive program for guests, letting you rent a Q4 or Q8 for a couple hours. We took a smooth and delightfully peppy ride to Tunnels Beach nearby, arguably the island’s best.
The rooms frame a truly exceptional view.
Courtesy 1 Hotels
The Must-Haves
The rooms: more like studio apartments, many with a sectional facing the water for optimal exposure. (Bring binoculars for surfer and sea-animal sightings.) The brutalist bones get a contemporary, chic, and organic design lift, with teak, lava stone, and living walls throughout. Nothing feels stale, but nothing feels overdone or gaudy, either.
Thoughtful touches: We were delighted to find a loaf of fresh-baked banana bread waiting for us. The staff had a few gifts for the newest member of our family, too: a onesie and stuffed animal to help bring the island’s “hang loose” vibes back to the crib.
The pool scene: Yeah, you’ll be canceling plans for days on end. There are two infinity pools, poolside drink service, a strong lunch menu, and enough space to never feel crammed in or have trouble grabbing a seat. And that’s just the pool. Grab a cabana by the beach or take a dip in the calm Pacific waters. Play with locals’ dogs as they romp around the sand. The beach is mild enough you could conceivably wade your way to Tunnels Beach, but let’s face it, the Audi is comfier.
Massage tables at the Bamford Wellness Spa.
Courtesy 1 Hotels
Wellness
Prenatal massage for couples: If you’re expecting, this is one offering at the 1 you simply cannot skip. My wife looked like she’d taken the best drug of her life—and that was five minutes into her hapai maternity massage. Even the ability to lie on her stomach was marvelous, she said, a welcome reprieve after months of contorting herself around pregnancy pillows. I got a massage in a traditional style, a glorious hour of rolling elbows and wrists that felt like ocean waves.
Sound bath: If you’re like me, you find meditation to be an uphill battle. Try as you might, you just can’t focus on silence. May I suggest adding the sonorous vibrations of large musical bowls? The 1 Hotel’s sound bath meditation is an experience so viscerally relaxing, your ears and brain will feel like they got a spa treatment as well.
Outdoor gym: Here’s a recipe for a great afternoon: 1) rent a cabana facing the ocean; 2) enjoy several banana coladas; 3) notice that there are barbells and dumbbells made of wood in an alfresco exercise station 10 feet away; 4) feel invincible as you work your pecs and biceps; 5) realize that your spotter is pregnant and cannot help you if you crush yourself; 6) return to said cabana; 7) have another banana colada. (Yes, there’s a full gym inside as well.)
The lobby farmstand.
Courtesy 1 Hotels
Dining
At the Hotel
Welina Terrace: Gorgeous views, salmon as tender as a ukulele strum, and a menu full of spirit-free cocktails. (The whiskey concoctions are delightful, too.) The terrace itself is a premier selfie destination, and I felt sympathy for the seven-foot-tall guy next to me who was asked to take every couple’s sunset photo. But boy is it worth it.
1 Kitchen: This is the first choice for breakfast. As I said, get the pancakes.
Neighbors: Solid grab-and-go options; strong cold brew. I liked the acai bowls, but I’d recommend going into town for those.
Near Hanalei
Bar Acuda: Fine dining, Kaua‘i style. Book a table well in advance.
Wishing Well: I’m still thinking about the breakfast bowl and cold brew smoothie here.
Hanalei Poke: If your partner is avoiding raw fish—for pregnancy reasons or a veggie-forward diet—they may be on the hunt for tofu poke in Hawai‘i. Done right, tofu can capture the texture and taste of tuna, and it’d be tough for any carnivore to find fault with bean curd served over rice with plenty of sauce. The go-to spot for veggie poke? This humble counter with outdoor seating in Hanalei.
The 18+ pool on the property.
Courtesy 1 Hotels
Bottom Line
The 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay is both gorgeous and grounded, a standard-bearer for design-forward wellness resorts in Hawai‘i. If you’re heading to Kaua‘i, you’re probably already considering it. I’m glad I did, and so is my wife, who’s now eight months pregnant. This stay gave us something to dream about when life gets a little more uncomfortable. But it also put our minds at ease. We know our kid is going to have a great time here when we return.
