I’m man enough to admit that I got emotional watching America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova—a must-see for history lovers, New Yorkers, and New Yorkers at heart. In the documentary, we meet students at the Veteran’s Watchmaker Initiative, which began when Arde Bulova granted disabled WWII vets a watchmaking education, then jobs. Seeing heroes go from dealing with trauma and feeling forgotten to finding fulfillment and purpose pulled at my heart’s caliber. Bulova’s patriotic services are one reason I consider it America’s watch brand.
Appropriately, Bulova is headquartered in the Empire State Building. On a rainy Wednesday morning, I headed up the iconic Art Deco skyscraper to meet with the team at their archives and round up some important historical models. One can’t help but feel reverent when surrounded by these artifacts: The industry’s first women-focused line. America’s first-ever TV ad. The pre-quartz tuning fork movement, which (aptly described by brand director TJ Harris) evaded the exploitation that quartz is often subjected to.
From pioneering the celebrity endorsement blueprint to democratizing good timekeeping, Bulova is intrinsically American and inherently New York. No watchmaker is as connected to aviation, spaceflight, and pop culture without being solely aimed at the wealthy. The icons below prove that.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Lone Eagle
With its gracefully stylized eagle heads and strong, hard lines, a vintage Lone Eagle is unlike anything you can find today. It’s also a multi-conversation piece. The watch was dedicated to Charles Lindbergh, the first man to fly across the Atlantic solo. An even cooler story? Bulova gifted him this watch, and Lindbergh responded with a thank-you note describing the timekeeper as “keeping accurate time and is a beauty.” Then, in an impressive guerrilla marketing move, Bulova began including a copy of the note in the Lone Eagle’s presentation box to great success.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova A-11
The A-11 was dubbed “the watch that won the war.” Its hacking function allowed WWII servicemen to sync with each other. For us non-soldiers, being able to stop the second hand by pulling out the crown is just plain fun to do. A vintage Bulova A-11 is easy to find online; if you can source one actually worn by a soldier, that’s a story worth telling. However, contemporary A-11s reimagine the quintessential field watch for everyday gents, with its modishly versatile blue dial. Since the hacking function is the true icon here, it’s worth noting that Bulova builds a few military-style hacking watches. I particularly want to highlight the cathedral-clad VWI Special Edition, the proceeds of which go to the Veteran’s Watchmaking Initiative.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova MIL SHIPS
The MIL SHIPS is classic but distinct, featuring a dynamic handset (one of my very favorites) and a unique moisture indicator strip. It simultaneously represents a mythic past and a brand-new day. With five-star general Omar Bradley as chairman, Bulova developed the MIL SHIPS prototype in the ‘50s. Back then, no commercial diver met the US Navy’s required specs; many premium Swiss models were certainly bulletproof enough, but sharks love shiny things. The MIL SHIPS won the solicitation, contracts fell through, and only 11 broke containment. Today, we have a commercial release. Every detail from the prototype is there, including the controversial slim lugs, bringing a balanced refinement.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Lady Lindy
As with Charles Lindbergh, Bulova honored Amelia Earhart’s 1932 solo Transatlantic flight with a tribute watch for women. Neither Earhart nor Bulova subscribed to the boys club mentality of their respective industries, so this was a natural partnership. With its exquisite enameled dial and feathered lugs, the Lady Lindy is a grail among men and women alike. It has a lively, ornamental, yet sculptural quality. So despite being dainty, it isn’t weak-looking. It’s pretty yet formidable.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Miss America Reissue
This reissue is as ceremonial as a tiara, except a non-royal won’t look daft wearing it. I was able to see the original 1930s model during my visit to the archives. I tell you, the look and wear are immaculately recreated. The labored-over case sweeps, labyrinthine filigree, and glimmers of royal blue would put a Renaissance master to shame. From Bulova forming the first women-dedicated wristwatch line to its controversial “Equal Pay. Equal Time.” advertisement, this brand has a rich history with female watch-wearers. The powerfully feminine Miss America is part of that tradition.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Lunar Pilot
Watch fans know the Omega Speedmaster as the first watch on the moon. Watch historians enjoy telling the story of astronaut David Scott’s pinch-hitter Bulova. During the 1971 Apollo 15 mission, his standard-issued Speedmaster malfunctioned. Thankfully, Scott had the good fortune, and good taste, of carrying his personal Bulova, which served the rest of the mission. I consider this legendary watch the most high-value chronograph on the market today. Its design is stylishly efficient, and its three-prong quartz movement boasts a frequency eight times greater than the standard. The Timascus version, a collaboration with Brazilian artist Thiago Rosinhole, is particularly striking. The dial’s complex, multi-floored metallic interconnections are downright atmospheric, bringing new life to an old favorite.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Super Seville
Nothing says ‘70s glamour like the Super Seville. Many brands offer fluted bezels, and many offer cushion cases. Bulova gives us both, finished with a swanky television-style dial and a strapping integrated bracelet. It’s presidential meets disco. Modern versions maintain this retro-chic look, but, like a pre-war apartment with smart house technology, run on Bulova’s Precisionist movement. There are also several variations, including dapper two-tones and impeccable stone dials. If you like automatics or the charm of a well-loved watch, vintage is always an option.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Oceanographer “Devil Diver”
Another tidbit I learned watching the Bulova documentary is that the team has its finger on the enthusiast community’s pulse. The purpose-built, ISO-certified Devil Diver was very literally brought back by popular demand. I’ve called it the perfect summer watch because, like the season, the fiery dial is both happy-go-lucky and devil-may-care. For a calmer yet still charismatic palette, consider the Snorkel Oceanographers. Each model is inspired by a sea creature, flaunting serene aquamarines and ceruleans with pops of corals and yellows. Also, the hybrid ceramic cases are strong, smooth, and lightweight.
Photos via Bulova
Dior Bulova Collaborations
Bulova has always had one hand in horological innovation and one in style and culture. In the same era the brand developed its tuning fork technology, it also partnered with Christian Dior to deliver the most elegantly unusual yet still wearable dress watches—probably ever. I’d take one of these double-signed gems over a contemporary Dior watch because of the heritage timekeeper cosign. One of the most creative is a ‘70s model with a D-shaped case clipped onto the leather band from the side. The attachment is C-shaped, creating a “CD” formation. Of course, you can always go for more symmetrical options, including classic round cases, haloed squares, and tonneaus.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Parking Meter
Bulova’s chronograph game was strong in the ‘70s, churning out hit after hit. I would be remiss to not mention the legendary Chronograph A “surfboard.” However, my choice ‘70s chrono is the Parking Meter, which offers a unique dial layout, silhouette, and functional composition. In other words, it’s a true original. It gets its name from the subdial configuration, accented with visibility orange. That, along with the bullhead-head case, combines looks with efficiency. It’s the ideal watch for the practicalist who just “accidentally” looks stylish. Love the bullhead but not the parking meter? Bulova’s collaboration with muscle car master, Carroll Shelby, brandishes a thrilling Shelby blue four-register dial.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Chronograph C
I can’t tout Bulova as America’s watch brand without including the much-loved Stars and Stripes chronograph. I don’t typically go for cases over 42 millimeters. But, the red-tipped arrow hands and two-tracked outer dial draw your eyes to the edges, making this red, white, and blue timepiece look like a firework. Bigger is actually better here. The reissue is updated with a domed sapphire and Bulova’s high-performance quartz movement.
Photos via Bulova
Bulova Clock Radio
In 1928, Bulova invented the first-ever clock radio. When the team showed me their reimagined Bluetooth-enabled version, it was love at first sight. The retro appeal is still there, with its protruding timekeeper and Deco character. Combining wood-grain with a sparkling constellation-like clock face, though? This classy but fun device can be from the past or the future. I simply adore that optimistic World’s Fair aesthetic.
Photos via Bulova
Accutron Spaceview
Bulova rocked the horology world in 1960 when it introduced the Accutron, the world’s first tuning fork electronic watch. While the industry was startled by a timekeeper that wasn’t balance wheel-regulated, consumers were treated to the most accurate watch movement yet. The Spaceview model allowed wearers to see the technology, adding visuals to the auditory experience of its famous low-level hum. Now its own brand, Accutron produces a descendant, the Spaceview 2020, which runs on an electrostatic movement that generates actual lightning.
