“What can I get you?” asked Max Girombelli, the owner of Duca Sartoria, a bespoke suit purveyor in Midtown Manhattan, when I arrived at his atelier. “The choices are sex, drugs, or rock ’n’ roll.” He let the words hang for a second before adding, “Just kidding. How about a glass of wine?” With that, he uncorked a bottle of Sangiovese from his native Ancona, pouring generously.
Born into a family of tailors in northern Italy, Max is a legendary New York clothier—and something of a philosopher of men’s fashion. As we drained the bottle and admired his sweeping views of Midtown, he waxed poetic about the history of men’s suits, the stylistic nuances between Italian and British tailoring, and the joy of dressing well.
Opening the side panel of his double-breasted jacket made from Loro Piana fabric, he revealed a row of neatly arranged interior pockets holding his AirPods, sunglasses, and a pair of cigars. “A suit is to a man what a purse is to a lady,” he said. “It keeps you organized on the go.” I asked how many suits a well-dressed man should own.
“At least 365. One for each day of the year.” This time, he didn’t add, “just kidding.”
Picking out style, fabric, and colors is exhilarating, but a bespoke suit is worth the splurge for one reason above all: impeccable fit. Nothing broadcasts dash and savoir-faire like a sharp suit, but the charm fails if size, cut, or proportions are off. Suited sex symbols like James Bond, David Beckham, or Don Draper look so effortlessly suave because their garments fit like a second skin. What’s more, bespoke suits can disguise flaws in a man’s physique. If you’re a short king, a bespoke suit can make you appear taller. For guys with slumped shoulders or beer guts, a good tailor can create the illusion of stronger posture or a trimmer midriff. Finally, touches like monogrammed initials, special pockets, and whimsical linings transform a suit from mere clothing into a personal statement.
A bespoke suit can easily exceed the cost of a month’s rent in a luxury Manhattan apartment, but it doesn’t have to. Below are my favorite bespoke suit purveyors in three tiers of prices. If you decide to invest in a custom suit, maybe for a wedding or a new job, we also have you covered with tips to keep it looking impeccable for years.
The Best Bespoke Suit Under $1000: Rajawongse Tailors (Bangkok)
Bangkok is a city of many thrills, and one of them is buying custom clothing at a fraction of U.S. prices. However, not all Thai tailors are created equal. As with Bangkok’s hidden temples and best khao soi vendors, you need a local to steer you in the right direction. Luckily, I had Henry Woodward Fisher—a British expat and founder of the Thai beverage company Zuza—point me to Rajawongse Clothier, the tailor he trusted for his wedding suit.
Rajawongse is helmed by Victor Gulati, a master tailor whose family of Punjabi clothiers has been crafting bespoke suits in Bangkok for almost a century. His atelier is lined with bolts of luxury fabrics, and above them, framed photos of dozens of diplomats, ambassadors, and celebrities draped in his finery.
Gulati sources most of his fabrics from Italy and Great Britain, and his tailors are known as much for their precision as their speed. When I visited, I was so giddy over the money I was saving—more than enough to justify my plane ticket—that I walked out with not just a suit, but several button-downs and a jaunty Hawaiian shirt of airy silk.
After a consultation, Gulati takes your measurements and helps you choose a style and fabric. I simply pulled up a Google image of a suit I liked, and he replicated it down to the stitch. As long as you don’t opt for extravagant fabrics, a beautifully tailored suit from Rajawongse will cost under $1,000. The entire process takes about a week, so if you’re visiting Bangkok on a tight schedule, book your first consultation as early as possible. And if you don’t have time for a final fitting, no worries—Rajawongse ships worldwide.
The Best Bespoke Suit Under $2000: Alan David (New York)
Alan Horowitz recently opened a new Madison Avenue atelier, Alan David Custom Suits, but his family has been in the bespoke suit business for four generations. He honed his craft as a teenager in his grandfather’s shop in Manhattan, and today, many of his clients are families who have been customers for generations. His tailors are just as devoted—several have worked with him for decades.
Alan epitomizes the hallmark resiliency of New Yorkers. His previous studio, just blocks from Ground Zero, was forced to close after 9/11. More recently, the pandemic nearly shuttered his business when restrictions prevented in-person fittings. Yet, thanks to his loyal clients and sterling reputation, he persevered—and New Yorkers are better dressed because of it.
While Alan’s bespoke suits, tuxedos, and shirts can cost thousands, he also offers suits starting at $1,400. The process requires two visits: the first for measurements and a consultation with a fabric expert, the second, usually 4-5 weeks later, for a fitting to perfect the silhouette. After the initial visit, he can ship bespoke garments anywhere in the country. For a first-time client, Alan recommends a classic navy blue three-piece suit—a versatile staple suitable for nearly any occasion.
The Best Bespoke Suit over $5000: Duca Sartoria (New York, Miami)
If, by some miracle, I ever struck it rich from writing offbeat men’s lifestyle stories, my first indulgences would be a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle 23, a Patek Philippe Ref 5016P, and a bespoke suit from Duca Sartoria.
With deep ties to the Italian fashion industry, Max Girombelli sources the finest fabrics in the world, primarily from Zegna and Loro Piana. But, as he says, any fool can learn to cut luxury fabric. Max’s gift lies in his ability to understand his clients’ character and body type, then craft the best-looking suit their money can buy. When I visited Max and inquired—perhaps a bit too eagerly—about his prices, he offered a knowing smile and said, “My customers neither ask nor care.” His assistant, however, revealed that a basic Duca Sartoria suit, made with the least expensive cotton or linen fabric, costs about $5000.
Of course, for those with champagne taste and a bank balance to match, the sky’s the limit. When I visited, Max showed me a Super 200 fabric from Loro Piana, which a client recently selected for his suit for the Met Gala. Max offered a reasonable justification upon seeing my shocked expression at the price per yard of ethereally soft fabric: “He will thank me every time a woman gives him a hug.” If you don’t have a bank account that resembles a phone number, but still want a bespoke garment from Max, consider a customized shirt or sport jacket.
Caring for Bespoke Suits
To keep suits pristine, Max recommends a simple thirty-second ritual after each wear: gently run a clothing brush over the fabric from top to bottom, before taking off the suit. Dust and dirt often cling to the fabric when you’re out and about, but a quick brush prevents schmutz from settling into the threads.
High-quality hangers are a no-brainer. Hang the jacket on wooden hangers formed like human shoulders and drape the trousers on a velvet hanger. When not worn on your body, the suit should hang in a clean and well-ventilated closet.
Dry cleaners can be both friend and foe. While dry-cleaning is a necessary evil, the process subjects fabrics to stress and frequent dry-cleaning will shorten a suit’s lifespan. If you’re careful with your suit and brush it after each wear, Max recommends dry-cleaning only once per season. Find a dry cleaner who is reputable and trustworthy—even if that means paying more.
If you gain or lose weight, it’s time to visit the tailor. Heaven forbid your expensive, form-fitted garment should look baggy or too tight. Fortunately, skilled tailors can quickly remove or bring out fabric to adjust the suit to your frame. Should you stain your suit, dab the fabric with a dry white cloth and bring it to the dry cleaner as soon as possible. (Remember that club soda is strictly for cocktails; never dab it on stains.)
To remove wrinkles in a pinch—after a long flight, for example—use this classic trick: run a hot shower for a few minutes, close the bathroom door, and hang your suit in the steam for about 15 minutes. The gentle heat will help relax the fabric, without the risk of direct heat damage.
