It’s hard not to feel like you’re stepping into your own small slice of Lost In Translation when wandering the streets of Tokyo, jet lagged, in search of some sashimi or an Anthony Bourdain-approved Lawson egg salad sandwich.
The early ‘aughts Bill Murray classic is one of the first references that came up when I mentioned I was trekking across the pond with a famed watchmaker (perks of the job!) earlier this spring. Would it feel that way? At times, yes, and at times, it felt a bit like home.
Yes, with the motto “for relaxing times, make it Suntory time” guiding my way, I set out to discover Japanese culture (balanced between high-end sashimi and offset by canned Highball cocktails and 7-11 spicy chicken sandwiches). With my trusty Blundstone boots along for the ride, I charted a course with a healthy interest in seeing if Japanese menswear lived up to the hype.
As far as cult-favorite brands are concerned, I found the answer a resounding yes when it came to Kapital, the seriously denim-obsessed brand revered by its own country (and Reddit-focused #menswear forums in the States and beyond).
Photos via Beau Hayhoe
Designed by Kiro Hirata, the son of Kapital’s founder Toshikiyo Hirata (the company dates back to the 1980s), there’s a feeling that “if you know, you know” that’s only reinforced by Kapital’s essentially walk-in-closet-sized Ginza outpost, visible from a side street only thanks to a vivid yellow smiley face sign paired with an upside-down bicycle.
A slew of other stores across the country are larger, but this one packed in plenty of character all the same.
No photos are allowed inside, which makes sense. The appealing array of designs are something like a mad scientist’s fashion creation, fabrics are richly crafted, the colors are vivid shades of light wash blue, military green, and dark indigo, and it’s not hard to see that brands would gladly take a dash of design inspiration from Kapital.
If you happen to stumble upon what’s become a Kapital signature (the smiley face, that is), you’re in a place where exceptional denim fabrication meets a slew of runway-approved designs.
Between a dazzling array of neon lights, vivid billboards, a veritable cacophony of sounds—at the convenience store, at a highball bar, riding a bullet train—wandering through Tokyo felt like its own level in a disorienting IRL video game of sorts. For the record, Japan calls back to me even still, and I can’t wait to return. And yet, coming across the Kapital outpost felt like a quiet, if somewhat cramped, momentary respite.
Photos via Kapital
Based in Okayama, the brand takes exceptional Japanese denim and utterly reinvents the wheel with, well, a bit of this and a bit of that.
“This and that” means patchwork denim jackets, more traditional selvedge trucker jackets with boxy designs, asymmetrical silhouettes aplenty, military inspiration and a healthy dose of Americana trickling down (or cascading in waves) into designs that end up being utterly distinctive.
While there’s plenty to be said for unearthing vintage American denim or trusty Red Wing boots in Japan—a country with a respectable obsession for traditional “U.S. of A” favorites—Kapital offers a fresh outlook.
And fresh is an understatement, with an entirely new twist on denim at the core of the company. Hundreds of pieces join the Kapital collection each season, and menswear obsessives particularly love Kapital’s Century Denim.
You could likely include remarkably distinctive Japanese stalwarts like Visim and The Real McCoy’s in the same discussion of the best Japanese menswear brands, although it’s worth noting that LVMH-backed investment firm L Catterton acquired a majority stake in Kapital in 2024.
Again, stalk menswear forums if you’re interested in a debate on what that means for the company. Or try out a pair of its exceptional patchwork denim or military cargo pants and see the wonders of Japanese fabrication for yourself.
Photos via Mr Porter
The silhouettes available at the Kapital Web store are a masterclass in drape and proportion, perhaps part of the reason why streetwear fiends scour the market for Kapital pieces. You can find high-concept picks online at outlets like MR. PORTER, if a trip to Tokyo isn’t quite in the cards right now.
With my taste for the unique quelled for the time being, I set out again towards the next great adventure. A cash-only beer bar that would (hopefully) make Anthony Bourdain proud.
While sipping a crisp Asahi, I reminisced on store shelves overflowing with creations crafted with remarkable care. An eye-opening experience and a feast for the senses, even if most items in the store might prove difficult for me to add to my own menswear wardrobe, stylistically speaking.
Assuredly, Kapital is a cult favorite brand to know, it’s a gem in a crowded menswear market (acquisition be damned, I say), and there’s simply no company doing it quite like them. While it’ll take some time to reacclimate the next time I visit the wondrous, delirious city that is Tokyo, I’ll keep a pin on my Google Maps for the Kapital Ginza outpost, and I’ll trek onward from there.
