I think I found my dream sports watch. The dive experts over at Zodiac joined forces with foremost vintage authority Craft+Tailored to deliver the Super Sea Wolf 691. In the week I’ve worn it, I found it to be a classic but distinct timepiece with some fascinating lore behind it. It’s a faithful recreation of the 1953 Ref. 691, featuring a 37-millimeter case and an unsigned dial. Still, this reissue boasts modern creature comforts that don’t compromise the vintage experience. It’s like an elegant pre-war apartment with heated floors.
That Cameron Barr, the man behind C+T, insisted on this level of authenticity is a testament to his nuanced understanding of the vintage lover’s mind. By bringing a hard-to-find deep cut back from the dead, C+T and Zodiac effectively bring us something new—even if it’s old. Did you know that the Sea Wolf debuted a year before the Submariner and the Fifty Fathoms? That’s one of the many stories I like to tell when I get compliments on this watch.
The Super Sea Wolf 691 comes in two colorways. The glossy, black dial version is limited to 400 pieces, while the cream version is limited to 100 pieces and found exclusively at Craft+Tailored. Both models retail for $1,695. Having seen both at a release party here in New York, I can say each exudes a retro-but-relevant aesthetic. However, I gravitated towards the cream dial, and it’s the one I test-drove.
There’s just something about the glisten of applied indices against a light, matte background that makes them look like they’re floating. Though simple and versatile, the design is full of visual intrigue. I love how the cut-out arrow on the seconds hand frames each index as it passes it by, which also enhances legibility. (Form, meet function.) Also, can we have more cursive on watch dials, please? It’s these touches of old-world class that allowed me to comfortably wear the 691 to a black-tie benefit, as well as to Sunday night football at Dorrian’s, a cozy and wood-paneled Manhattan pub.
Finally, I like getting to know my calibers. Give me an exhibition case back or give me a manual wind. (Friends make fun of me because I tend to mindlessly wind my automatics.) The 691 runs on a new manual winding movement, a rare and impressive feat many watch brands don’t care to undertake. Fortunately, Barr knows what vintage enthusiasts care about. Other specs include 200 meters of water resistance, a brilliant lume, and a sapphire crystal.
