The Most Underrated Watches of the Year

I analyze the impact of new watches the same way I analyze my other great love—pro sports. My cardinal rule? Make no major claims about the year’s heroes and sleepers until the season’s end.

I’m a Patriots fan. We’ve had a fourth-stringer, sixth-round draftee go GOAT (you know Tom, right?), a 92.5 passing-rated rookie go south (wishing Mac the best), and now, a remarkably fast-rising star (my Drake Maye optimism is cautious). 

Perhaps it’s the disruptive microbrands or the light secondary market, but 2024 in watches deeply reminds me of my Pats experience. It’s fascinating to see the timepieces that ended up being underdogs by the end of the year. Some white-hot new releases burned too bright too fast. Others were novelties that wore off, perhaps due to something buzzier coming along. And many launched under the radar and stayed that way.

I’ve pulled from all of those buckets to present you with some of my favorite unsung heroes from 2024.

I love the Fifty Fathoms, but he doesn’t share space with the Air Command as well as the Speedmaster does with the Seamaster—or even as well as the Submariner does with the Daytona. This green Air Command Flyback Chronograph is the latest reissue based on Blancpain’s highly sought-after 1950s Air Force–only watches. This color palette is the best yet, the matte green hat-tipping to its military pedigree more effectively than a sunray blue does. Moreover, the tan indices and syringe hands are reminiscent of tropicality, balancing the vintage aesthetic with a modern one. My favorite part? The delightful propeller-shaped gold rotor that you can admire through the exhibition caseback.

Learn more at Blancpain

In an industry of million-dollar auction records, Yema is generally underrated. Still, this Yachtingraf Croisière hits its target audience hard. There’s the vintage styling, the classy but quirky Wes Anderson color palettes, and the inherent neo-preppiness of an unapologetic yachting watch. The minutes counter, “Big-Eye” Yema calls it, ensures there’s no mistaking what this chronograph is made for. You have to love a watch that knows exactly who he is. Oh, and let’s not forget that French name, Croisière. Yema has been building sailing race watches for French pros since the ‘60s. Is there anything more natural than a regatta-going blue blood saying words en français?

But at Yema

In this new era of men embracing smaller cases, especially on dress watches, these Citizens have unisex appeal. They’re bold but not loud, with a touch of non-gaudy sparkle via actual diamonds (at such a reasonable price). That red dial would look dignified with a red tie. Arguably, these L Arclies were destined to fly under the radar. First off, though they’re a fabulous addition to Citizen’s general offerings, they came out during the brand’s 100th-anniversary year, which was commemorated with several limited-edition headliners. Second, while the watch world is starting to change its boys’ club ways, ladies’ watches still tend to take the backseat, all things considered. 

Learn more at Citizen

Buy at Bloomingdales

In the category of underrated watches, the Disco Celeste is probably the least underrated. However, it didn’t seem to get the hype that Furlan Marri’s first mechanical or secular calendar did. Furthermore, why did his brother, the Disco Verde, get the GPHG Challenge nomination over him? I think the blue colorway and celestial theme better fit the flying saucer design. And who even makes disco volantes anymore? Style is cyclical. I agree with Furlan Marri that it’s the right time to bring it back. I just hope a more household name doesn’t put out its own flying saucer watch, then take full credit for the style’s revival.

Buy at Furlan Marri

Grand Seiko gets the spotlight for its harmoniously designed dress watches, the Snowflake being their local icon, while its sports watches tend to draw less attention. Yet, the SBGE307 GMT is an impressive reformatting of Grand Seiko’s poetically graceful design language into a confident tool watch. The athletic, multi-textured lugs are unusual—distinct but not weird. The impeccable dial texturing is inspired by a lion’s mane. Like the Snowflake, it plays with the tension between fierceness and quiet beauty but leans more into the fierce side. And, of course, the Lion runs on GS’s legendary spring drive movement. It’s a quintessentially Grand Seiko GMT, and all I can say is bravo.

Learn more at Grand Seiko

What’s a brand that all watch people love, but deserves to be loved by all? Brew continues to grow up in front of us, each leveled-up new release serving as a new chapter in their story—one I’m invested in. The Lumint takes the immaculately proportioned design of the charming Retrograph and equips it with a captivating luminescence. Basically, Brew upped the already high engagement factor of the original Retrograph. The unlit dial flaunts a pastel mint color, reminiscent of the lume. Now that’s good design.

Buy at Brew

I’ve heard Hamilton described as overrated in the entry-level and mid-tier community, and underrated in the luxury world and general public. There’s also the fact that adding a visually unobtrusive quartz model to an existing subline can feel like a cash-grab diffusion. However, this new Khaki Field looks 90 percent exactly like Hamilton’s 1960s General Service Watch, with its railway minute track and old-radium-colored lume. Between that and the 33-millimeter and 38-millimeter options, this timepiece stands on its own as one of the market’s best entry-level field watches.

Buy at Hamilton

With Tudor releasing a world of special editions in 2024, the VCARB got lost in the shuffle. Nevertheless, this is the first instance of a ceramic special edition going into regular production. We first saw this covert-chic model on Daniel Ricciardo, as it was inspired by his new F1 team. Style-wise, it’s classic yet urbane, high-tech yet analog. And since this is Tudor, this Master Chronometer offers remarkable value. I believe ceramic watches are generally underrated. For those who think Rolex makes comfortable bracelets, I implore you to try a ceramic one.

Learn more at Tudor

The Hermès Cut received good coverage and accolades. But in my opinion, it deserved more. I heard whispers like, “It’s great-looking, but at that price, I’d rather have a Rolex or an Omega.” We generally don’t have many agreed-upon design cues for ladies’ sports watches. Often, brands will shrink down their men’s versions, perhaps add some gems, maybe offer more delicate colorways, and make it a quartz even. With the Cut, Hermès gives us something we’ve never really had. Think about it. Ladies’ sports kits and gear aren’t frillier than men’s; they just accommodate a woman’s unique lines, sizing, and geometric vocabulary. That’s what this strong, sleek, and crisp watch does.

Buy at Hermes