Laos is not an easy country to get to. Even from New York. My journey required the longest operating flight via Singapore Air, a full 18 hours, landing in Singapore, then a connecting flight to Bangkok. After spending the night at the Avani+ Riverside in Bangkok, my jet-lagged and weary self boarded another two-hour flight to Luang Prabang.
Even as we flew in, sailing above chiseled cliffs, I could tell that Laos was a world apart, and worth every minute onboard an aircraft. Unlike Bangkok, which boasts an ever-changing skyline and plenty of hustle and bustle, the sleepy town of Luang Prabang, encircled by stark mountains and morning mist, began to crawl under my skin. But it wasn’t until I boarded a boat, one which would take me from Luang Prabang, down the Mekong river to the border of Thailand, several small villages, and eventually the capital city, that I truly began to fall in love with Laos, its people, and its food.
The Boat
Mekong Kingdoms’ Boheme launched in December 2024, so the boat is essentially brand new. While it is the largest passenger vessel floating the Mekong in Laos, don’t be fooled: It is tiny in comparison to those gargantuan cities passing themselves off as cruise ships. Measuring 50 meters in length and 10.4 meters across, the boat, which is manned by a 20 person crew, can hold up to 26 guests at a time. Onboard, there are 13 fairly spacious cabins on two of three decks, as well as two spa treatment rooms, a pair of sun decks, and a luxurious dining salon.
The boat is equipped with running (hot!) water, WiFi, and just about every creature comfort one could ever need, except for television. But with these views, you won’t miss it.
The Trip
There are two itineraries to choose from—upstream or downstream. I chose downstream, which begins in the UNESCO World Heritage town of Luang Prabang. (I recommend adding a day here to explore.) Based out of the Avani+ Luang Prabang Hotel, you can do it all. Alms giving, a morning ritual where monks receive sticky rice, takes place right outside of the hotel’s doors, and the location is within walking distance to the bustling night market, where this quaint town roars to life.
The next morning, we boarded the boat, received a farewell Baci ceremony from the village elders, and began our cruise upstream for two brief stops—the first to Ban Xang Khong, where we made traditional paper using mulberry, and tasted silkworm poo tea (quite good). Next, we got in a tender longtail boat, which took us to the amazing Pak Ou caves, which hold thousands of Buddha sculptures.
Over the next two days, we made our way down the picturesque Mekong, snaking our way into a pottery village where we tried our hand at making bowls, before floating our way further downriver, past gradient cliffs and stunning sunsets to the amazing Kuang Si waterfalls for a hike and a brief swim in the bright blue pools.
Because Laos is known as “the land of a million elephants,” the fourth day takes travelers to an elephant sanctuary, before the boat makes passage through the Xayaboury Dam, where you get a first-hand view at the inner workings of this one-of-a-kind dam and its locking mechanisms.
On the last day, travelers have the opportunity to take in Ban Pha Liep, a charming village nestled among limestone cliffs, before disembarking and traveling by coach to Laos’s capital city of Vientiane.
Food and Drink
While cruises might bring to mind buffets and over-indulgence, the experience onboard the Boheme is quite the opposite. Most meals are enjoyed onboard, cooked fresh with local ingredients. Our traveling group delighted in freshly made curries, noodle soups, stir-fried prawns, banana-wrapped fish, and many more regional delicacies.
The boat is also stocked with local beverages like beer (Beerlao and one from a Luang Prabang brewery), as well as Laoatian gin, and Lao Khao (rice whiskey). There is also champagne, wines, and other familiar spirits, plus plenty of cocktail hours to indulge freely.
Photo by Mekong Kingdoms
The Verdict
As someone who likes to run around cities like a wrecking ball, I was blown away by the slow travel experience onboard the Boheme, as well as its itinerary and crew. Every staff member was accommodating and kind, and the trip perfectly balanced activities and downtime, giving me just enough space to bathe in the breathtaking scenery without going stir-crazy in my cabin. This is all to say, cruising the Mekong aboard the Boheme may just be the best way for travelers to take in Laos—I couldn’t recommend it enough.
A five-night journey starts at $4,200 per person, but varies depending on the time of year and occupants per room. Learn more at Mekong Kingdoms.
