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Travel

This Little-Known Caribbean Island Is Best Seen by Golf Cart

Bonaire's chill vibe offers a fresh take on slow travel.

This Little-Known Caribbean Island Is Best Seen by Golf Cart

Bonaire, the lesser-known gem of the ABC Islands off the coast of Venezuela, stands apart from its more familiar neighbors, Aruba and Curaçao, thanks to its less crowded feel and easygoing vibe. Known for its thriving coral reefs and protected marine environment, Bonaire is the ultimate destination for divers and snorkelers. 

Bonaire offers more than 85 dive sites along its 24-mile length and narrow width of just three to seven miles. Underwater, the island is a protected marine park and a recognized Blue Destination, with more than 350 fish species and over 57 types of coral. Dive operators across the island cater to all skill levels, from first-timers to expert divers. Specialized courses—including night diving and wreck diving—are available, as well as programs through the International Association for Handicapped Divers.

The ocean here isn’t just for recreation—it’s central to the island’s identity. Centuries of maritime tradition are reflected in Bonaire’s cultural heritage and even in its flag, where the blue represents the surrounding waters. On land, the island’s history unfolds in the village of Rincon, established by Spanish settlers in 1499, and in the salt pans once worked by enslaved people brought here under Dutch rule. 

Today, that complex history blends with cultural influences from Africa, Europe, Asia and the Americas, fostering a distinct identity that sets Bonaire apart in the Caribbean. And its laid-back charm is endlessly appealing to travelers seeking a quieter vacation.

Photo by Rachel King

How to Get There

Out of the ABC Islands, also known as the Leeward Antilles, Bonaire is actually the second largest to Curacao, and Aruba is the smallest. Yet Bonaire is arguably the hardest to reach. That said, it’s absolutely worth the effort if you’re looking for a less party-driven atmosphere. 

Bonaire has a small airport, and it is possible to fly directly to Bonaire on commercial airlines from major airports in New York, Houston, Atlanta, Miami and Toronto. Among the larger airlines that serve the island from the U.S. and Canada are American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, JetBlue Airways, United Airlines and WestJet Airlines. 

Inter-island carriers such as Z Air, WinAir and Divi Divi Air also offer flights between Bonaire and other points in the Caribbean. There are no direct flights from Bonaire to Latin America, but Avianca, Copa Airlines and Wingo Airlines offer connections. Bonaire also has direct flights to Amsterdam via KLM with connecting flights across Europe.

An alternative way to reach Bonaire is by sea. Several major cruise lines dock in Bonaire, including Carnival Cruises, Celebrity Cruises and Azamara Cruises, among others. Tourism contributes 40 percent to Bonaire’s GDP, and a great deal of that comes from cruise ships. 

Kralendijk is the capital city and main port of the island of Bonaire, and from here you can easily walk straight off the ship and explore the colorful town (where you can easily find many shops, cafés, ice cream shops, bars and restaurants). You’ll also find lots of transit options, from tour operators to bike rentals.

If you are on your own, traveling with a companion or in a small group with at least a few licensed drivers, there is another option that offers far more freedom: a golf cart. Yes, this is perfectly legal and actually a lot of fun. (It’s also refreshing given the occasionally punishing heat and humidity. The open-air vehicle really lets the breeze in.)

There are no traffic lights on the island of Bonaire, and most roads are one-way only. It’s possible to circle the island in a day by car—even by golf cart. Rentals start at $45 USD per day from Golfcart Rental Bonaire, which is a 10 minute walk from the cruise port. You can also add on a number of options for rent, like snorkeling equipment and even a portable shower, which might come in handy after a trip to the beach.

Note that visitors to Bonaire are required to pay a tourist entry tax of $75 USD per person, per visit. (The tax is just $10 USD for children.)

What to See

1,000 Steps

Fortunately, you don’t have to climb up and down a thousand steps. (It’s more like 67, although they’re a bit steep and there is no railing, so anyone going up and down should take caution.) Located on the northwest side of the island, this is one of the go-to spots in Bonaire for snorkeling and diving. It also has a small but cozy beach inlet where you can set up your own chairs and umbrellas. The beach is a mix of white sand and coral fragments, and during certain times of the year, you can spot sea turtles in the shallows. 

Te Amo Beach

Te Amo Beach is a public beach not far from the cruise port as well as the airport. It’s one of the few white-sand beaches on the island. From here, you have a panoramic view of the harbor while also watching planes arriving. There are few trees for shade, and there are a lot of shells in the sand. There are fish and coral visible just a few steps in the water, so it’s also a good spot for both sunbathers and snorkelers. You can also picnic here for lunch, and food trucks are often parked nearby.

Gotomeer

While there are several spots across the island where you can spot flamingos, this saltwater lagoon is probably the most tranquil. It’s also the farthest away from town, a 30-40 minute drive, on the northern side of the island. Bonaire is one of the few places where these birds nest, and they are most active from January to June when raising their young. The paved road along the lagoon offers views of the birds among cacti and shallow water, with an observation point providing a vantage across the lagoon and Washington Slagbaai National Park.

Salt Pans

This is more of a drive-by destination, but it’s so visually stunning you can’t miss it. Bonaire’s salt pans are a visible reminder of the island’s history with salt production (which is very much still active), dating back nearly 400 years. Large mounds of white salt can be seen in the south, where Cargill Corporation continues the practice using solar evaporation. But the colors and textures on this small stretch of land make you feel like you’ve been transported to another planet. The area is also home to protected flamingo habitats, with the birds sometimes visible from the roadside when they choose to show themselves.

The Cadushy Distillery

What is a trip to the Caribbean without a stop at a distillery? But you won’t find rum here. Located in Bonaire’s second largest town of Rincón, The Cadushy Distillery produces a unique cactus liqueur made from the island’s native plants. Visitors can tour the distillery, learn about the production process and sample different liqueurs and spirits, including the award-winning Rom Rincón. The garden, shaded by old trees, also attracts parrots and hummingbirds as well as iguanas, the latter of whom are usually unbothered by humans nearby.

Klein Bonaire

You’d think once you get to the island of Bonaire, that would be it. But no, there’s an even smaller island of Bonaire. Klein Bonaire is an uninhabited island just half a mile off the coast. It covers about 1,500 acres and is part of the Bonaire National Marine Park. The island is known for its coral reefs and turtle nesting grounds. It can be reached by water taxi from the cruise port, and the ride is about 20 minutes each way. That said, there are no bathrooms or facilities on the island of any kind, so plan accordingly

Photo via Luciano Bonaire

What to Eat and Drink

Bella Brunch on the Lady Bellaïs

If you’ve always wanted to emulate an experience out of Bravo’s Below Deck, this could be your chance. Lady Bellaïs is a Brazilian wooden schooner that hosts cruises along the coast, including brunch sailings every Sunday, offering morning spreads with pastries, mimosas and even Dutch pancakes. All dishes are prepared by the boat’s onboard chefs. After eating, guests can opt to lounge on the deck and watch the coastline go by or take a dip in the sea and go snorkeling. 

Bubbles

Bubbles is a seafood restaurant in downtown Kralendijk known for its tuna, mahi mahi, and wahoo. The menu includes grilled and smoked dishes, with some items cooked on a Green Egg grill. The setting has a casual, nautical feel with fishing nets and maritime decor.

Chefs Bonaire

This intimate, 16-seat chef’s table experience is located at the boutique hotel Bamboo Bonaire. It’s also one of the hardest reservations to get on the island. Dinner at Chefs Bonaire begins promptly at 7 p.m. with a welcome glass of crémant sparkling wine, followed by a five-course menu served directly by the chefs. The setting is designed to encourage conversation among guests, making it a social as well as culinary experience. The standard menu costs $195 with wine pairings or $120 without. The chefs can accommodate allergies and dietary restrictions with advance notice.

Luciano

Tucked farther into town, Luciano is an all-day café and your best bet to find food whenever you’re hungry. With indoor and outdoor seating, Luciano has a full menu of specialty coffee drinks, smoothies, ice cream and panini sandwiches. 

Mahalo Bowls and Rolls

Mahalo Bowls and Rolls serves Hawaiian-inspired bites like poke bowls with customizable ingredients and a focus on fresh produce. The ordering system is automated for convenience, and the menu includes vegetarian and vegan options.

Posada Para Mira

Located in Rincón, Posada Para Mira was founded in 2010 with a focus on traditional Bonairian cuisine. The menu features dishes like stewed goat, chicken, and fresh fish, served with sides such as funchi, tutu, sweet potatoes, and fried plantains. Iguana is also available for those looking to try something more adventurous. Guests can enjoy views of the surrounding landscape while sipping house-made lemon or tamarind juice. 

Ocean Oasis

If you’re not staying at a beach hotel, or even if you are, you can’t miss this beach club. Ocean Oasis is a beachfront spot known for its laid-back atmosphere and full-day offerings. It opens at 9 a.m. for breakfast and continues all day with lunch and dinner service in its shaded restaurant area. The terrace features lounge seating with sofas and beanbags, while the sandy beach is lined with sunbeds and cabanas. The menu includes a variety of dishes, from simple snacks to more elaborate meals, alongside an extensive wine list. This place just wants you to relax, whether you’re eating, drinking, reading a book under an umbrella or just staring out at the sea. 

Trocadero Bonaire

Open since 2019, Trocadero is a restaurant and live music venue on Kralendijk’s main boulevard. It serves grilled meats like steak and ribs, with live music events scheduled throughout the week. The location’s open-air seating makes it a popular spot for both meals and drinks.

The enticing pool at Grand Windsock.

Photo via Booking.com

Where to Stay

Delfins Beach Resort Bonaire

Delfins Beach Resort is a luxury resort on the west side of the island right on the beach but still not far from the airport. With 148 apartments with kitchenettes as well as 13 villas, this is an ideal location for families and groups. The on-site restaurant, Brass Boer, serves upscale seafood dishes, and the property includes a large pool, a beachfront bar and a dive center offering lessons and gear.

Grand Windsock Dive and Beach Resort

Grand Windsock hosts 72 newly-built villas and apartments, some with private pools, on the west side of Bonaire. The property has a dive shop and a private beach club with a bar and restaurant. Rental cars and trucks are available for guests who want to explore beyond the resort.

Harbour Village Beach Club

Set on Bonaire’s only private beach, Harbour Village Beach Club is both a bit more isolated being on a peninsula but also quite close to the center of Kralendijk. And it offers direct views of Klein Bonaire. The marina and on-site dive center attract visitors interested in both boating and underwater exploration. The property includes a spa, a waterfront restaurant and beachfront suites.

Sorobon Luxury Beach Resort

Sorobon Luxury Beach Resort is located on Lac Bay, known for its windsurfing conditions. The recently renovated resort features beach houses that open directly onto the sand. The shallow, calm waters of the bay make it popular with both beginners and experienced windsurfers.

The Bellafonte

The Bellafonte is an oceanfront hotel offering apartments with kitchens and balconies. It has a private dock with direct access to Bonaire’s marine park, making it popular with divers. The property has a low-key, residential feel, with meals available from a neighboring restaurant.