At a Van Cleef & Arpels exhibit, I learned something revealing about how we compare women’s and men’s watches. My friend Maria, a luxury industry doyenne, drew my eye to a small chain on the clasp of a dainty vintage wristwatch. She told me that it was the strap’s contingency plan. The functional fasteners on men’s timekeepers were simply too masculine, and women’s prettier, weaker clasps often came undone. Ladies’ watch fasteners eventually improved, but the chain remained as decoration. As I educate myself on women’s watches, I realize how similar they are to men’s, which we more associate with the function-to-ornamentation pipeline.
Clasp chains and secret watches were workhorse features, no different from unidirectional bezels and 24-hour dials on masculine tool watches. Nowadays, it’s all decoration anyway, so who cares if it’s a girl’s or a boy’s watch as long as you love it?
There are many iconic models that I prefer the women’s version of. It’s not even that I like traditionally feminine colorways or gemsets. Quite the contrary. As a smaller-wristed gent, I prefer visual brawn rather than physical brawn; I don’t need the case hanging over each side of my wrist. Considering ladies’ timepieces can bring practical benefits you don’t always get in men’s watches, in addition to expanding your style options.
That’s what today’s curation of ladies’ and unisex options is here to prove. And even if I haven’t convinced you by the end of this to venture outside of the men’s section, these are some great options for a lady in your life.
Photo via 1st Dibs
Rolex Yacht-Master 37
I like the men’s Yacht-Master, but I believe the Yacht-Master 37 better represents the point of the line. It looks more refined than the 42-millimeter without being formal or even feminine. After all, the proportionally thick bezel and bezel numbers already provide visual boldness. The Yacht-Master’s brand promise is elegance and class, a sunning-oneself-on-a-boat counterpart to the professional, sporty Submariner. On my small wrist, the 42 doesn’t say, “I’m a man of leisure” as much as it says, “I’m shoving it in your face that I might own a boat,” and that’s neither elegant nor classy. You also get some stylishly dignified features unavailable in contemporary 42s, like a teal second hand and Everrose bezels. Truthfully, a watch this hefty-looking at 37 millimeters suits most wrist sizes, whether it’s on a lady or a gent.
Photo via Hamilton
Hamilton Ventura S
Hamilton’s Ventura range is known for its retrofuturistic charm. This unisex version leans more toward the futuristic side, with a sleeker, shinier build and sharper turns throughout. It’s more contained and dignified than the original, with the crown segment draping over the silky sunray dial like a hanging tiara jewel. It’s also the only version with a beige colorway, which ups the overall class factor. The serene hue brings a beautiful balance to the dynamic silhouette, making the watch look more grown-up and less like a cosplay prop. Moreover, the 34 by 38 millimeter case is comfortably unintrusive. The Ventura S runs on a viewable automatic movement, equipped with a Nivachron spring for improved resistance to temperature changes and magnetism.
Photo via Citizen
Citizen Promaster Dive
Like the Yacht-Master, this smaller 37-millimeter case makes the ladies’ Pro-Master Dive more wearable without compromising its athletic build. If all you want is a tried-and-true Citizen diver at a more reasonable size, the standard black version is available. Yet, I encourage you to consider some colorways and designs you can’t find in the men’s line. The icy, crystalline dial on the EO2022-02A is complemented with the case’s rose gold accents. The teal blue EO2027-09L adds fun to function. Expanded variation aside, these are still practicalist’s watches, featuring 200 meters of water resistance, brilliant lume, and Citizen’s light-powered, sustainable Eco-Drive movement that eliminates the need for battery replacement.
Photo via Bulova
Bulova Rubaiyat Ella
Here’s an example of how crossing the aisle into the ladies’ section is more about looks than size. The Rubaiyat Ella isn’t just the only dedicated dress watch in Bulova’s collaboration with the legendary Apollo Theater, it’s also the swankiest one. Just look at the halo around the case, providing dimensions and layers to its silhouette. It’s graceful, but still appropriately jazzy. A boringly straightforward watch wouldn’t do Ella Fitzgerald justice. The ceremonial Roman numerals add a reverent sensibility befitting a timepiece dedicated to the First Lady of Song. Meanwhile, the white enamel dial and diamond 12 marker (Fitzgerald’s birthstone) provide just enough sparkle and pearlescence. I personally think that it’s stylistically more compelling than a Cartier Tank.
Photo via 1st Dibs
Hermès Cape Cod
Speaking of square watches, I prefer the standard Hermès Cape Cod in a women’s large, which is 37 millimeters. Unlike the Tank, with its aristocratic Roman numerals and chemin de fer dial, the Cape Cod’s sophistication lies in its leisurely charm and purposeful yet subtle details. A standard Cape Cod has a clean, minimal dial. So many 41-millimeter options have a touch too much negative space for my liking. In contemporary men’s versions, the watch hands are surrounded by a pared-down railroad, a tasteful way to fill that visual gap. However, if you like a dial with just Hermès’ emblematic round-edged Arabic numerals and nothing more, the ladies’ version is more efficiently designed.
Omega Seamaster Ladies
In the ‘90s, Omega delivered a ladies’ Seamaster inspired by the GoldenEye watch, which came out two years prior. I’ve been known to recommend this version to men with extra-small wrists and men who want to pass a sport watch off as a dress watch. Its scalloped bezel, skeleton hands, and wave dial are iconic. The 2583.80, with its recognizable blue palette, is the direct 28-millimeter descendant of the 41-millimeter GoldenEye and the 36 Mid-Size. Today, I also want to fly the flags of two other references.
The black 212.30.28 variation boasts a chic, cool factor, and like the original blue, its applied indices add a unisex sparkle not seen in the men’s versions from the same generation. Then, there’s the 2582.20; its elegant ivory dial and understated silver-toned bezel may be the most dress code-versatile. I rarely enjoy traditional dress watches. Natty, tiny sport watches like these Seamasters have been my evening wear saving grace.
Photo via 1st Dibs
Panerai Luminor Due
But Panerais are supposed to wear big, right? Yes. But again, there’s a difference between a watch looking big and it simply not fitting correctly on your wrist. So if you’re a fan of the Luminor Due and aren’t Dwayne Johnson, the 38-millimeter version is a superb solution. My two favorite features of the Luminor Due are its cushion case and the long, prominent lugs. The way your wrist hides and peeks out between the case and strap brilliantly matches the bold but breathably peppered-on aesthetic of the dial. When this watch is too big on your wrist, you lose that quality and one of the watch’s best design elements. In fact, the 38 even looks good on big wrists—after all, the Luminor Due is a muscular watch, not a meathead watch. Plus, versions with more romantic qualities, like a moon phase or pink gold accents, look more natural on the smaller dials.
Photo via Casio
G-Shock 2100 Series
Here’s the kicker: Ladies’ G-Shocks aren’t even that small. The 2100 Series would wear athletically on even a standard men’s wrist. The women-aimed subline of the 2100 Series is special because of its calmer colors. Instead of stark black, you get the GMS2100B-8A’s onyx-like sheen on a gunmetal hue. Models like the 7A9, 2A, and 3A take bright, shiny colors and mute them, resulting in silky yet almost neutral versions of gold, cerulean, and mint. They’re as spec-forward and tactical looking as any men’s G-Shock, but these unique colorways provide a balanced tension. Most importantly, they’re undeniably fun, which I consider a prerequisite for a brand that’s served as a watch gateway for many kids and former kids.
Photo via 1st Dibs
Patek Philippe Nautilus
The Patek Philippe Nautilus has a strapping yet urbane design that looks good in any size. But, there are expanded options in the contemporary 37-millimeter line that are extra expressive without taking away from the visual equilibrium we love about the Nautilus. For example, the versions with the Arabic 12 and 6 add a bit of laid-back modernity to the watch. Meanwhile, the versions with gemset bezels look less gauche in this smaller size. Of course, no matter what variation you go for, you can count on masterful Swiss craftsmanship and a captivating automatic caliber.
Photo via NORQAIN
NORQAIN Ladies Adventure Sport
We’ve lauded NORQAIN for being a family-owned watchmaker offering well-executed Swiss timepieces. With the Adventure Sport watches, the design’s clean lines, impeccable applications, and charming basket woven NORQAIN dial look beautifully composed in the men’s 42-millimeter version. Still, men and women alike might consider the women’s because the available red gold accents add dimension and character. There isn’t anything especially feminine about them, especially in the green, gray, and black versions. The warm pops against stark black actually remind me of the original Tim Burton Batman suit. These watches boast high-value construction, offering automatic movements, sapphire crystals, and even DLC cases in addition to the more common stainless steel options.