I’ve long feared airing this opinion in public—it took a lot of self-work for me to admit it even to myself. But heck, as a quartz proselytizer, I walk into a lot of watch communities pre-canceled anyway. So here we go: Given the choice, I’d pick an Hermès Cape Cod over a Cartier Tank, particularly the flagship Très Grand Modèle, which celebrates its tenth birthday this year. This is coming from someone who loves and respects the Tank and is generally unreceptive to fashion houses crossing over into horology. Many find the comparison tiresome and imperfect—arbitrary, even. However, the two watches have more in common than just their square silhouettes. In fact, I think they mirror each other in a lot of ways.
Hermès has been a sort of dark horse in the watch world (appropriately enough, given its equestrian heritage). I wasn’t interested in Hermès watches until, one day, I was. Unlike most heritage labels, this maison is still family-owned and still enlists single-skill artisans. Their foray into watches may have started slow, but it was never uninspired, and I believe that the Hermès Cape Cod could even be the next Cartier Tank. Even those who agree are likely thinking, “sure, maybe someday.” Allow me to convince you that the day may come sooner than you think.
Image via Hermes
But the Cape Cod Was Made Before Hermès Got Serious About Watches
Was it, though? Do you think this because the Cape Cod debuted in 1991, long before Hermès developed its first in-house movement in 2003? Or is it because it predates Hermès’s first GPHG Prize in 2011? The luxury house has always focused on lifestyle, not just fashion. After all, it was founded as an equestrian harness maker in 1837.
The Cape Cod is made with the same imagination, detail, and artistry as an H bracelet, Kelly bag, or Brides de Gala scarf. Pierre-Louis Dumas set up a dedicated watchmaking division, La Montre Hermès, in 1978, so the house never outsourced its designs. Even before this, Hermès got its feet wet by teaming up with Rolex, Universal Genève, and Jaeger-LeCoultre for thoughtful collaborations. Hermès watches were never a collateral subsidiary.
Many watch enthusiasts who acknowledge Hermès as a horological force draw a hard line. It wasn’t until 2013 that it acquired Joseph Erard SA, bringing case production into the family. This rounded out two prior purchases: Dial-maker Natéber SA and the partial acquisition of movement-maker Parmigiani Fleurier’s Vaucher Manufacture. Doesn’t this mean that any watch built after these acquisitions is, per these strict confines, “legitimate”?
And finally, some horology heads are turned off by one glaring detail. The core-line Cape Cod, despite being objectively well-crafted, runs on an ETA V8-based quartz; Hermès doesn’t seem particularly forthcoming about its use of a movement commonly found in entry-level and mid-range watches. But let’s be real, most quartz timekeepers will be fine regardless of grade.
When you acquire a battery-operated timepiece, whether it’s a Cape Cod or a Tank, you’re mostly paying for the looks, the brand, and the quality of the outside construction. Both Hermès and Cartier prove that just because a watch is quartz-powered doesn’t mean craftwashing is involved.
Image via Hermes
The Cape Cod is a Fashion Watch
Do you think Cartier’s Tank Must is a fashion watch? If you believe all quartz models are fashion watches, then we’ll just have to respectfully disagree. Perhaps you think that because of Cartier’s more traditional horological origins, the Tank’s “diffusion line” is likewise more respectable.
Even given that, consider the 2010 Cape Cod Tourbillion or the automatic Cape Cod GMT from 2014. No one would ever call either of them fashion watches. Some naysayers consider these fine mechanicals exceptions to the broader Cape Cod collection, but I’d like to counter with the example of the Cape Cod TGM.
In 2015, the Cape Cod Très Grand Modèle was launched, available in both quartz and automatic models. The automatic runs on the in-house H1912 caliber, which features 28 jewels, a 50-hour power reserve, and 28,800 vibrations per hour. Did I mention the H engraving on the rotor? Not only is the TGM emblematic of the Cape Cod, but it’s also the collection’s principal model.
While the Cartier Tank diffused into affordable luxury with the quartz Must, the Hermès Cape Cod took a reverse journey. Regardless, there’s no denying that the Cape Cod became an icon long before the TGM. Which leads me to my next topic: Why the Tank comparison at all?
Image via Hermes
New England’s Leisure Class vs The King of Jewellers
Both the Cape Cod and the Tank are fiercely unisex and have been famously worn by several leaders of style and culture. Both collections bear the marks of great designers. Most importantly, they’re each quintessential to their respective houses.
My parents are from New England. The Cape Cod, which is inspired by the history of the American East Coast, is simply more me. As Town & Country pointed out back in 2017, this square-within-a-rectangle timepiece achieves the old-world style tenets decreed by The Official Preppy Handbook. It’s simple and neat, made with practical, high-quality materials, and boasts heritage as well as humor.
Both the Tank and the Cape Cod have a noblesse quality. However, the Cartier brings to mind aristocrats at a coronation, while the Hermès evokes them on holiday. It’s silk waistcoats versus cable-knit sweater vests. The distinction boils down to Old England versus New England—by way of Paris.
The Cape Cod was designed by Henri d’Origny. Sharing the same father as the first-ever Hermès watch, the Arceau, gives it a first-generation touch. Its case composition flaunts the brand’s all-important Chaîne d’Ancre motif, bestowing it a family resemblance to flagship pieces across all of Maison Hermès.
The Cape Cod is the signature Hermès watch, as the Tank is the signature Cartier. Hermès’s square icon leans into newness while respecting the standard. Meanwhile, Cartier’s is the traditional standard-bearer. It’s not unlike the GoldenEye Seamaster’s relationship with the James Bond Submariner. And like the Seamaster, the Cape Cod has a famous bracelet. In 1998, Martin Margiela upped the collection’s cool factor by creating the Double Tour strap. By harmoniously combining punk with prep, Margiela ensured the watch’s aesthetic has one foot in coastal Connecticut and the other in Manhattan’s CBGB era.
Image via Hermes
The Cape Cod Doesn’t Hold its Value
Unlike its relative, the Birkin bag, there aren’t years-long waitlists to acquire a Cape Cod. So yes, it isn’t as good an investment as the Tank in that sense. Even then, not all Tanks will hold their value, just as the vast majority of watches don’t.
Though Cartier has been in the horology game for far longer, La Montre Hermès has made undeniable strides. Moreover, in 2025, Hermès overtook its former acquisition suitor, LVMH, in market value. Do we just need to give the Cape Cod some time? Are we currently in a “buy low” window? Crazier things have happened.
Ultimately, though, there are much wiser investments than watches. If you prefer the Cape Cod over the Tank, as I do, just go for it.
Classic Cape Cod Watches to Consider
In addition to the Cape Cod, you might consider its partner, the Nantucket, which is more rectangular than square. There’s also the Heure H, whose snazzier H-shaped case is arguably more visually similar to the Tank’s design. In my opinion though, the founding father of Hermès square watches is still the best.
Photo via Hermes
The Original Silhouette
The core Cape Cod comes as a 37-millimeter Grand Modèle, or GM, and as a 31-millimeter Petite Modèle, or PM. This is likely why they’re categorized as women’s watches, though both sizes are perfectly unisex. Some variation dials include ones with gemsets, mother-of-pearl, or colored lacquer anchor chain motifs, but my favorite is the classic.
Image via TheRealReal
The Tonneau Case
Here’s a remix even I, a Cape Cod purist, can get behind. The added curves distinguish it from the base design while retaining the collection’s inimitable looks. It’s elegant but laid back, and classy yet fun. Like the original, the tonneau version comes as a GM or PM, with diamond settings available.
Photo via 1stDibs
Precious Metal Options
Building the quartz Cape Cod in gold definitely brings it closer to the Tank Must. Both are high-value, precious metal timepieces from major brands. If you can find it, Hermès also built the Cape Cod in its proprietary silver. The alloy features more than the standard 925, allowing it to shine brilliantly without tarnishing.
Photo via Hermes
The Cape Cod TGM
Again, the chief Cape Cod is available in quartz or automatic form. The quartz TGM is cleaner-looking, while the mechanical has an embossed center that looks almost like an Audemars Piguet patisserie. I also love the unexpected placement of the date window at six o’clock, which makes it more seamlessly inconspicuous.
