Naples Is Italy’s Most Underrated Travel Destination

It was October 2022. I was in my second year of law school, and the desire to walk away from the rigorous program had finally outgrown my ability to play it cool. I went to law school out of pure panic mode, from both having personally experienced an injustice, paired with losing my job due to the pandemic. Surely, having a law degree would never leave me in the type of jobless, hopeless mess I had found myself in come March 2020, right? But now, here I was, and I was faced with a choice: head to the library to study for my third-semester midterms, or say, “Screw it,” and book an impromptu trip to Naples, Italy, in a desperate attempt to be inspired. So I chose Naples.

Despite having been to Italy several times before, I had purposely dodged Naples like the plague. Everyone told me it’s seedy, it’s dangerous, it’s dirty. But at that moment, it felt like dangerous, seedy, and dirty were just what the doctor ordered. I booked a cheap Airbnb on Via Materdei, found a decent flight deal on TAP Air Portugal, and the rest was history.

Read more: 5 Small, Gorgeous Italian Towns You Probably Haven’t Visited

Naples has an international airport (NAP), a port for cruises and boats (Stazione Marittima), and several train stations connecting to other Italian destinations, with the main one being Napoli Centrale. My flight was slightly delayed, and I was flying into Rome (FCO) with plans to take full advantage of TrenItalia’s Frecciarossa, a.k.a. the high-speed route that connects Rome and Naples in around one hour. I contemplated booking a last-minute room in Rome for the night just to avoid arriving in Napoli after 10 p.m. But I took the chance and headed in late at night. 

From Napoli Centrale, government-authorized cabs can be caught right out front, under the designated “TAXI” sign. (Uber service in Italy can be intermittent or nonexistent due to ongoing legislative squabbles, so you must take an authorized cab if that’s your preferred mode of transport.) While taxis in Napoli should never charge more than 12 to 14 euro if you’re staying somewhere central, make sure to agree on the price before getting in the car.

Taxis aren’t necessary for all travelers, because Napoli has a great public transit system. I was able to access the Metro right from Napoli Centrale, where a one-way ticket cost me 1 euro 80 cents. After an uneventful 15-minute ride, I walked along the cobblestone streets late at night to my Airbnb, completely unscathed and unbothered.

While my first night was quiet, as soon as I stepped out onto Via Materdei the following morning, the lively energy of the city quickly revived my spirits. There’s something thrilling about risking your life simply by crossing the street, as Vespas buzz past you in every direction. The atmosphere of Naples can best be described as gritty chaos, where people appear to be tough as nails but are as soft as ricotta. Having extensively traveled throughout Italy, I can wholeheartedly say there is nowhere in Italy—or possibly the world—as fast-paced, wild, and passionate as Napoli. It easily gives New York City a run for its money. 

Speaking of money, the prices in Napoli will probably surprise you compared to other European destinations. You can snag an Aperol Spritz from a street vendor for as little as one euro, while a pizza larger than the size of your head will be between 5 and 8 euro. What’s not to like?

No trip to the birthplace of pizza would be complete without sampling the local delicacy. But I soon learned there’s much more to the city’s cuisine, particularly its enticing tradition of fried food. You’ll find an eclectic assortment of items on both restaurant menus and from street vendors, like cuoppo di pesce (a cup of fried fish), fritattine (leftover carbonara pasta that is breaded and fried), arancini (fried rice balls), crocchette di patate (potato croquettes), and, of course, pizza fritta (fried pizza). The best neighborhood in the city for fried street food is Quartieri Spagnoli, or the Spanish Quarter.

So, why is there so much fried food in Naples? Much of the city was bombed during the Second World War, which put a whole lot of ovens out of commission. To make some cash and keep their own bellies full, locals started frying their food. This is when pizza fritta was born, and it’s evolved in delicious and unexpected ways ever since. Now, you can opt for pizza fritta in calzone form (stuffed with ingredients like cheese, meat, and sauce), or the montanara, a piece of fried dough typically topped with smoked buffalo mozzarella, crushed tomatoes, and torn basil. 

Montanara can be found on many menus in Naples, but the absolute best place to try it is Starita Pizzeria, which, luckily for me, ended up being right on Via Materdei. In September, the 2024 50 Top Pizza Awards were held at Teatro Mercadante in Naples, and several of the city’s pizzerias made the cut, including Diego Vitagliano Pizzeria (No. 2), 50 Kalò (No. 9), La Notizia (No. 18), and Salvo (No. 20). 

For breakfast, you must grab a sfogliatelle (pronounced SVOY-uh-dell-lay), which was born in nearby Salerno, naturally best paired with a simple café, or shot of espresso. Speaking of espresso, Bar Mexico is one of the best spots in the city to grab a cafe like a local; simply stand at the counter and sip your espresso before moving on with your day.

Naples is a massive city, the third largest in the country, so choosing the right neighborhood can make a huge impact on your experience. For a 5-star luxury getaway, head to Romeo Napoli, a relaxing oasis right in the thick of the city’s hustle and bustle. Be sure to take advantage of their on-site spa, La Spa Sisley, if you’re in need of additional pampering. 

For a stunning architectural work of art, The Spanish Palace is a perfect respite. I found myself there by happenstance, from simply walking around one day on my 2022 trip. While I didn’t stay there, I walked around and fell in love with its setting and aesthetic, saving it on my bucket list of hotels since that moment. The location already had me sold, but after seeing Booking.com’s reviews, I learned The Spanish Palace also is run by lovely people (the staff rating has a whopping 9.7/10) and apparently offers a great breakfast spread.

For an affordable option in a prime part of town, I would recommend the Airbnb I booked on Via Materdei. It didn’t hurt that there was an incredible wine bar down the street, appropriately named Mater winebar.

Too many visitors make the crucial error of simply using Naples as a place to transfer from Rome to the Amalfi Coast. Don’t let this be you! If you want a taste of the true, nitty-gritty Italy, use Naples as your base. It’s an easy hub to still see many of Italy’s other major hotspots: Positano is an easy day trip to get your Amalfi Coast fix. Capri and Ischia are easily accessible via the ports of Napoli, where a quick boat ride will let you live your best Italian island life. For something more historic, exploring the ruins of Pompeii is a popular day tour from Naples, and if you want to see another major city in just a day, Rome is reachable in just one hour via TrenItalia’s FrecciaRossa line.

When people find themselves in low places, they often dream of going off to an island with a cocktail in hand to get away from it all. I encourage you, instead, to head to Naples. Nothing will test you as much as being thrown into the fire of a vibrant, haywired city. Who needs sand and margaritas when you could eat fried pizza, explore tucked-away Spanish piazzas, and be a stone’s throw away from lemon-lined seaside cities?

My quick jaunt to Napoli was the catalyst to walking away from law school. I realized life had bigger and better plans for me, and I wasn’t pushed to follow through with those dreams until I was thrown into the prickly—but unforgettable—embrace of Naples.