Big watches have dominated men’s fashion for decades. Sylvester Stallone, one of Hollywood’s most influential collectors, just sold a bunch of 47-millimeter cases at Sotheby’s. Noted watch connoisseur Tom Cruise is a fan of Panerai, known for its oversized styling. Among new releases, there’s still a 54-millimeter Hublot MP-10 for every 38-millimeter Big Bang Time Only. But as a small-watch lifer, I’m embracing the trend toward shrinking cases. (Even G-Shock is offering its beefy models below the 50-millimeter mark!)
As such, I have a plea to all horology-loving men: Add a small watch to your collection. In this new world of diverse case sizes, smaller ones have come to represent many things: a hat-tip to vintages, stealth-wealth styling (regardless of the watch’s actual price), or a new approach to unisex. And there are plenty of options for those who prefer brawny aesthetics.
There are legitimate, practical reasons for every guy to add at least one small watch to their line-up. Here are a few recommendations.
They Exude Quiet Wealth
A smaller watch is, of course, “stealthier” and “quieter” than a bigger one. It’s well-documented that the Prince of Wales exclusively wears a 36-millimeter Omega Seamaster. The GoldenEye one. According to my cousin, who attended Eton with him, he’s been wearing it since his school days. My next point is related.
They’re More Versatile and Adaptable
During a vintage watch party in Flatiron, I asked several men if they preferred small watches. If so, why? If not, did he see any benefit to them? The overwhelming consensus was that smaller cases are inherently more versatile. The GoldenEye Seamaster isn’t visually subtle. However, the Mid-Size version’s modest diameter tempers its youthful wave dial and sculptural scalloped bezel. Few are bound by sartorial traditions as strictly as modern royals are. The prince wouldn’t have been able to wear a Seamaster during his 2011 wedding to Princess Catherine (which he did) if it were the 42-millimeter variant. He essentially turned a sport watch into a dress watch, a hack I often recommend—more on that when I get into the gender of it all.
Sean Connery wears Bond's iconic Rolex Submariner in ‘Dr. No.’
Bigger Isn’t Always Brawnier
I understand that some watches are meant to wear big. Robustness is in the DNA of certain tactical designs, like G-Shocks. If the watch case overtakes your wrist, though, you’ll look like a toddler who raided your dad’s closet. Besides, a well-fitted case with big, bold details equally achieves that robust presence. Consider the original Bond Submariner. The 6538 is only 38 millimeters. Thanks to its strong lugs, thick bezel, and famously big crown, no one would deny how muscular it sits—even on the wrist of 6-foot-2 former bodybuilder Sean Connery.
Subtlety Conveys Confidence
One of the guys I surveyed told me his vintage, square-shaped, 30-millimeter, diamond-set Bulova impresses more people than his Rolex Submariner does—when he isn’t at an event populated by watch nerds, of course. It’s also his “first-date watch.” Again, smaller sizes temper potentially loud visual details. They show that you don’t need to peacock, that you have nothing to compensate for.
Did I mention his Bulova is technically a ladies’ model?
There’s No Such Thing as a ‘Women’s Watch’
This leads me to my favorite reason to add a small timepiece to your collection, and it’s one that’ll appeal to guys who like big, athletic, even loud watches. If you go for a ladies’ tool watch, you can often get away with wearing it as a dress watch. I personally don’t love dress watches, so I wear a high-polish, 28-millimeter Seamaster with my formal attire. Related to the idea of going for big details instead of big cases, women’s tool watches tend to have visual brawn instead of physical brawn. My Seamaster tucks into my dress sleeve as elegantly as a 37-millimeter Calatrava does. If this isn’t proof that there’s really no such thing as ladies’ watches versus men’s watches, I’m not quite sure what is.
It’s similar to how all fragrances are fundamentally gender-neutral, though we’ve prescribed sweeter notes as more female and darker notes as more male. Watches with refined dial features, gems, and smaller case sizes have historically been marketed as being “for her.” Yet, case size conventions have always changed, many men’s watches have been and are bedazzled, and, since the aughts, women wearing “men’s” timepieces has been dubbed “chic” by fashionistas. When it comes to watches, gender is truly arbitrary.
What Size to Look For
For rugged sport watches, 42 millimeters is the absolute maximum for small wrists. Regardless, 36 millimeters to 38 millimeters is the universally flattering sweet spot for any style and any wrist.
For dress watches, you can go as low as 28 millimeters for a model with a lot of details (or if you’re wearing a ladies’ sport watch with your tuxedo, like I do). This way, it’s reminiscent of a vintage cocktail watch. For a traditional, minimal dress watch, don’t go any bigger than 38 millimeters. People forget that an evening-wear timepiece needs to be hidden under your sleeve 80 percent of the time, revealing itself only when you’re bending your arm. There’s nothing more dapper than a man flexing his elbow, his perfectly tailored sleeve pulling back to display his watch as he subtly glances down.
Omega Seamaster Pro 300
What to Try On
For the Guy Who Doesn't Love Dress Watches: Omega Seamaster Pro 3
The ’90s SMP for ladies isn’t just a smaller version of the Mid-Size. The added “feminine” details are why I think it works as a dress watch substitute. Unlike the men’s versions from this generation, you get flawlessly applied indices. The sparkle delivers refinement without compromising sportiness the way gemsets would. Meanwhile, the decorated clasp gives you the option of wearing the dial on your inner wrist. My ladies’ SMP is also my wedding watch, so I never take it off. Having this option allows me to wear my other watches alongside it without looking doubled-up. It comes in the iconic GoldenEye blue (2583.80) or a chic black (212.30.28), which pairs naturally with a tuxedo.
Rolex Yacht-Master 35mm
If the Seamaster 300 Is Too Small: Rolex Yacht-Master 35mm
Okay, so 28 millimeters for a Seamaster might be pushing it for some guys. Fortunately, the Rolex Yacht-Master comes in a 35-millimeter case. The Yacht-Master is an athletic watch, but he’s the man-of-leisure counterpart to his professional cousin, the Submariner. It’s certainly luxurious, but in a quieter way than the bigger versions, adding to its versatility. The gold and two-tone versions beautifully balance class with muscle.
Bulova Chairman of the Board
Vintage Styling and Modern Comfort: Bulova Chairman of the Board
Here’s some insider info courtesy of my friends at Citizen-Bulova. Did you know that the Sinatra family is actually heavily involved with Bulova’s Frank Sinatra line? It explains why they get the authentic vintage styling so impeccably, down to the Chairman’s 25.5-millimeter case. I love the journey of finding a vintage piece, but I understand it can be a hassle. The nostalgic Deco styling of the Chairman is constructed with modern stainless steel and sapphire. The caseback is particularly charming, with a semi-circle exhibition surrounded by informative engravings.
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas
The Statement Piece: Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas
Never in life did I think I’d be zealously flying the Bulgari Serpenti flag. Functional jewelry was never my cup of tea. It’s why I have a wedding watch instead of a wedding ring. When I attended a 75th-anniversary celebration for the Bulgari line, my friend, who was hosting the event, put one on my wrist. I was shocked at how much I liked it. With my suit jacket, the snake’s head looked commanding, while the spirals up my arm only ever peeked out if I made a strong gesture. True visual intrigue. When styled this way, it didn’t look gender-bendy (an aesthetic I admire and respect, but just isn’t me).
Moreover, you can go for the double-twist version if you want a bigger statement or the single-twist version, which is more understated, especially in stainless steel. This watch perfectly exemplifies that design cues aimed at women are often arbitrary—we can shop in any category we want.
The 28mm Cartier Tank
The Square Standard-Bearer: 28mm Cartier Tank
Personally, I love the 24 by 16.5 Cartier Tank Mini that made waves at Watches & Wonders 2024. I’m crossing my fingers that this is a precursor to the return of the cocktail watch. If you’re not ready for such a delicate and delightfully stackable timepiece, though, there’s always the trusty 28-millimeter Tank Louis. It still feels jewelry-like, is small but not delicate, and is effectively unisex.
The Casio A158WA-1
The Affordable, Retro-Cool Icon: Casio A158WA-1
The A158WA-1 hails from one of Casio’s royal families, the A1 subline of watches. With its black and silver tones and blue and red accents, the reconstituted Game Boy design is nostalgic and oozing with cool factor. Rarely is a watch as accessible as it is iconic. I’ve seen even the most advanced collectors keep this 33-millimeter gem in their rotation next to Rolexes and Pateks.
