At British Watchmakers’ Day, a friend reminisced about Bremont’s debut. “The 2000s seem like yesterday,” he said. “Now, an early MBII is a collectible, because it’s creeping up on neo-vintage.” Does anyone else find it shocking that anything made in the mid-aughts is vintage adjacent? Neo-vintage watches roughly range from 20 to 40 years old, and they’re picking up steam among collectors.
I’m not surprised. There’s a renewed interest in older timepieces in general. Moreover, independent watchmaking boomed at the dawn of the 21st century, and we’ve entered a period when many of these brands’ firstborns are coming of neo-vintage age.
And hey, these “aged enough” timekeepers offer many benefits over older vintages. They often combine classic designs with newer functions, meaning sourcing parts isn’t as difficult. You can get your ‘70s aesthetic and your 300 meters of water resistance, too. Personally, I love transitional models that blend visual elements from the past and present. And while a neo-vintage watch has lived, it still has many chapters left in its story—and you get to be part of it. Consider joining the unfinished stories of the following timepieces.
Photo via Chrono24
Hamilton Khaki Field 9415: ~$500
If you want a quintessential new vintage Hamilton, you don’t have to drop $1,500 on the top-billed 9379 Chronograph. The Khaki Field 9415 is equally as important to the brand. It’s visually similar to its contemporary descendants, but is distinguished by a less sterile logo font, an ever-present Khaki moniker, and manual winding. Hamilton makes non-automatic mechanicals today, but none in that delightfully versatile 33-millimeter size. See if you can find a 9415 dial with a yellowish charcoal patination. Remnants of its now-dead tritium lume are something you won’t find in a pre-’70s vintage or a post-2000s model.
Photo via Chrono24
Bulova Super Seville: $500-$1,000
There’s just something if-you-know-you-know about the Super Seville. The design is poignant, representing Bulova’s last days as an independent American watchmaker. Is it a Datejust homage? If it is, it’s the original. Plus, it’s not as if fluted bezels were a rarity in the ‘60s. If you go for an example from the ‘80s and ‘90s, you get modern elements like sunray dials and fast-beating calibers. However, it maintains its sub-40-millimeter case options, eschewing the bigger-is-better moment of its time.
Photo via Chrono24
Longines Weems L2.608.4: $800-$2,000
The Longines Weems L2.608.4 offers layers of nostalgia. It’s a special-edition release from the late ‘90s, and an homage to one of the brand’s legendary timepieces, the 1940s Weems Pilot Watch. This criminally underrated watch strikes the tricky balance of uniquely quirky and everyday utilitarian. At 36 millimeters, it’s big for the ‘40s, small for the ‘90s, and ideal for today. About 3,000 of the L2.608.4 were produced, though neither the cream nor black versions are particularly difficult to find on the secondary market.
Photo via Omega
Omega Seamaster 2541.80: $2,000-$3,000
I’ll fly the GoldenEye Watch’s flag anytime I’m given the chance. It’s now an emblematic classic, but it represented a brand new day when it debuted—which makes it the most treasurable kind of neo-vintage. The 2541.80 Seamaster’s wave dial, scalloped bezel, and quartz movement signified the start of the Omega x Bond eon, a return to form for a once-struggling Omega, and an evolution in the Seamaster line that remains unmatched today. With the GoldenEye Watch and the original Broad Arrow, the Seamaster family offers two flagships. That’s unprecedented; even Rolex gave the Explorer II its own lane. The 2541.80’s visage has since been outfitted with a Co-Axial Escapement, but there’s nothing like the original.
Photo via Chrono24
Bremont MBII: ~$3,000
I’d never advise a buyer to hang their hat on speculation, but it’s worth noting that several industry experts have dubbed Bremont the watch world’s next good investment. The MBII is the brand’s local icon—and the closest to a debut model you’ll find (the MBI went exclusively to pilots who’ve ejected from a Martin Baker ejector seat). Founders Nick and Giles English stepped down from their roles recently, officially giving the older MBIIs “founders era” status. Investment conversations aside, even the subtly more whimsical logo font characterizes a recent yet completely different point in watch history—in branding history, really. Aren’t the slight but significant differences what make neo-vintages special?
Photo via Omega
Omega Speedmaster Pro 145.0022: $3,000-$8,000
I can’t think of a new vintage that better represents transitional models than an Omega Speedmaster Pro 145.0022 from the 1980s. It looks like a Speedy from the ‘60s but runs on the higher-frequency 861 movement, which is also the basis for the contemporary Speedmaster Caliber 3861. That means you get all of the race-to-space Moonwatch goodness on the outside, but more accuracy and precision inside. Also, Omega didn’t switch to Superluminova until 1997, so many 145.0022 flaunt that charming cream-hued, tritium-affected dial.
Photo via Tudor
Tudor Submariner 79090: $5,000-$8,000
A mixed bag of old and new, the Tudor Submariner 79090 is a genuine neo-vintage archetype, making it one of the most sought-after in the category. In the ‘90s, Tudor was perfectly content to display some family resemblance with Rolex. This is no longer the case today, and will likely never be again. With its raised indices and longer second markings, the 79090 isn’t an exact copy of the Rolex Submariner, but a slightly retro paternal twin. (Just look at those Mercedes hands.) Vintage features include its sub-40-millimeter case, acrylic crystal, and jangly, lightweight folded links. Newer elements take the form of water resistance at 200 meters and a solid ETA automatic movement.
Photo via Rolex
Two-Tone Rolex Datejust: $5,000-$20,000
Does anyone else associate gold watches with the late ‘80s and early ‘90s, or have I just seen Wall Street too many times? Meanwhile, two-tone timekeepers are experiencing a renaissance, making the Rolesor Datejust the perfect blend of retro and relevant. In another instance of old-world aesthetics with contemporary function, my birth-year Datejust, the 16200 series from 1988, was the first to boast a sapphire crystal and the more advanced 3135 caliber.
Photo via Analog Shift
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5040: $40,0000+
Though it was Patek Philippe’s first tonneau-shaped perpetual calendar, the 5040 often takes several backseats behind other neo-vintage Pateks, like the 5050J and the original Aquanaut. As such, I’m taking this opportunity to highlight this overlooked wonder. Like the 5050J, it combines a ‘60s look with modern construction. However, the tonneau case, swervy font, and almost dizzying subdials add a Wonderland quality that matches the romantic spirit of the moonphase complication. Truly, the 5040 is a masterpiece in cohesion.
