The Irresistible Charm of the Birth-Year Watch

“Watches are alive like we are,” Adam Craniotes, founder of the watch-collector collective RedBar, told me over drinks at a Jaeger-LeCoultre event. “A watch that was born the same year you were? Whatever you lived, it lived it too.” 

I’ve always liked the idea of birth-year watches, but the thought that a 1988 timepiece also experienced the TRL era and the Tom Brady–Peyton Manning rivalry? Well, now I want one. Craniotes memorably described the concept as “your twin watch.” If the timepiece could talk, you could wax nostalgic with it. After all, you two have shared history.

For those looking to buy a watch that says something about them, a birth-year model is a fun and meaningful way to do so. This inclination is common among those who want to mark a milestone, like a big promotion or a major birthday. Moreover, a watch is more functional than a birth-year coin set, more permanent than a bottle of Scotch, and more exhibitable than both.

A lifelong watch collector, Craniotes owns two accidental birth-year watches, one being a Hamilton Pulsar. He didn’t purposefully seek them out, though. Adam just loves vintage LED designs—and what embodies ’60s-into-’70s retrofuturism better than a Pulsar P1? In a way, your birth-year watch represents what was in vogue when you came into this world, which probably influenced your own tastes. 

Konrad Kay, co-creator of the hit HBO series Industry, bought himself a birth-year Submariner after the success of the show’s first season. If you’re an ’88er like Kay and myself, the Submariner ref. 168000 is a real treasure. It’s a transitional variant, flaunting a new-vintage ’80s aesthetic, upgraded with 904L stainless steel. I think this “Triple-Zero” reference is one of the most undervalued Submariners on the market.

Caroline, who works in PR, says she’s attracted to the concept because she’s big on astrology. Part of the joy in watch buying is the acquisition journey. Imagine the detective work needed to find a watch’s sun, moon, and rising signs! Brittany Umstead, a high jewelry client developer at Bulgari, mentions that birth-year watches are popular now because we’re generally more nostalgic these days.

“It gives you another reason to talk about your watch,” says my friend Tripp Adams, a financier who’s in the process of seeking out a birth-year model for his 45th. “I get to say that it was made the year I was born. Then, since that year is 1979, I get to talk about how watches changed in the ’80s from the ’70s.” 

I recommended Tripp consider Seiko, perhaps a sporty-yet-dressy Actus or a tool-forward 6138-0011. The Actus was mainly offered in Seiko’s domestic Japanese market. Between that and its exquisite fumé dials, you can find some real originals in that line. Meanwhile, the 6138-0011 features a lugless, of-its-period UFO design. It’s one of Seiko’s last mechanical chronographs of the decade.  

Of course, there are naysayers. Some argue the concept forces meaning where there is none. Others say that certain brands make it too difficult to find a watch’s production date. Then there’s the Ship of Theseus dilemma of a “birth-year” model with replaced parts—how many modern additions are too many? A certain subset of collectors believes birth-year watches are special only if you get them when you’re young. Ideally, your father bought it for you the year you were born. This way, you actually get to live and grow with it. 

The core criticism is that if the birth year is your only requirement, you might end up choosing a less-than-worthy timepiece. So how do you find a truly worthwhile piece?

First, don’t buy a watch if its manufacturing date is the only thing you like about it. Cameron Barr, founder of the immaculately curated vintage reseller Craft+Tailored, owns a 1985 Omega Speedmaster Pro ref. 145.0022. He mentions that its birth-year novelty wore off a long time ago, but he still loves the mix of modern and vintage details in Speedmasters from the ’80s. It’s a watch that he could “enjoy aging with.”

Finding meaning beyond the production year “diversifies your portfolio,” so to speak. Going for a birth-year watch to commemorate another important moment in your life is a good way to do this. Similarly, I wear the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M because I loved it as a boy. Beyond that, it’s also my wedding watch. Even if my nostalgia for it ever fades (doubtful), it’ll also always symbolize the most important relationship in my life. Relatedly, there’s some sentimentality in wanting a timekeeper born in the same year you were. Embrace that. 

Another tip: Avoid waiting too long. I’m not in the camp that believes you can only enjoy a birth watch if you get it when you’re really young. You’ll still have plenty of time to spend with your twin timepiece in your 40s and 50s. However, you’re likely downsizing in your 80s, so why buy a new watch then at all?

And finally, enjoy the acquisition process. Savor it. This is my counterpoint to those who think elusive information is a reason to avoid birth watches. Channel your inner Sherlock Holmes if you have to—if you get to. On that note, you might want to start your search early. If you plan on commemorating your 40th, start doing some legwork the day after your 39th. How you come about your watch can be just as meaningful as the timepiece itself.