I recently attended an exquisite dinner at One World Observatory in Lower Manhattan to celebrate the new Citizen Premier collection. There was much to behold: Top-of-the-world views of New York, impeccable cocktails, and each course visually inspired by the timepieces du jour. And yet, my gaze was won by the titanium Attesa watches themselves. Good looks aside, they got me thinking about titanium’s renewed popularity. There was a groundswell in 2023, which led to a 2024 trend. This year might mark a full-on renaissance.
Citizen released the first-ever titanium watch in 1970, so it’s fitting that one is included in its new modern luxury line. Recently, we also saw the debut of a titanium Yacht-Master, Timex’s Swiss-made Giorgio Galli S2, and even an Apple watch.
Titanium always played second fiddle to stainless steel, but the reasons why don’t make as much sense as they once did. It isn’t as sparkly, but look-at-me-devices are out, and subtlety is in. Meanwhile, titanium’s high strength-to-weight may not feel as substantially “manly,” but bigger (and heavier) isn’t necessarily better anymore. And don’t tell me the way titanium sits between gunmetal matte and silver shine isn’t wonderfully commanding. What’s more, this underrated metal has undergone some innovative developments, as proven by many of the watches below.
Photo via James Brand
The James Brand × Timex Automatic GMT
If you’re looking at this collaboration solely from a watch perspective, you might deem it a touch expensive. From an everyday carry standpoint though, it offers fantastic value. It’s for brand-averse guys who enjoy good, honest design and style; guys who won’t spend more than a grand for a good-looking timepiece nor settle for a fashion watch. Timex and The James Brand EDC company built a spec-forward GMT using high-quality grade 5 titanium. Still, the emerald hue, back-exhibition cushion case, diamond-tipped hand, and barely-there branding are categorically non-boring without unnecessary pizazz.
Photo via Rolex
Rolex Yacht-Master RLX Titanium
As a former rower, I agree with the consensus that the Rolex Yacht-Master is perfectly purpose-built for competitive sailing. There was just always something a bit too man-of-leisure about it for my tastes. If considering a nautical Rolex, I’d usually choose the more professional Submariner. So when the crown reenvisioned this staple in practical, matte titanium, it entered the running for that hypothetical spot. All of the exceptional Yacht-Master features are there, but the tempered shine is more confident and less needy. It’s also a first. Sure, the 50-millimeter titanium Deepsea came before it, but this Yacht-Master is Rolex’s first titanium model for everyday wear.
Photo via Seiko
Seiko Essentials SUR371
If I could choose only two adjectives to describe the SUR371 from Seiko’s Essentials line, I’d go with “well-balanced” and “no-nonsense.” The gray titanium complements the silky blue dial, allowing you to wear this watch in, no exaggeration, any dress code. With a tuxedo? Go for it. On a construction site? Absolutely. The build is on brand for Seiko in that it’s sensibly high-value, but the combination of materials is a departure: A straight-forward quartz movement, tough metal, and even a sapphire instead of Hardlex.
Photo via Undone
UNDONE × The Hokusai-kan Museum | The Wave Forward
I’m on board anytime sport watches and art collide. Commemorating UNDONE’s tenth birthday, The Wave Forward is an Aquadeep special edition and collaboration with The Hokusai-Kan, a museum dedicated to Hokusai Katsushika’s art. The best part is how it shows off titanium’s aesthetic versatility. It’s essentially a gunmetal blue, which is undeniably cool, as it frames the flawlessly embossed wave dial. Some of you might think you aren’t familiar with Hokusai’s work—until you turn the case around to see the emblematically Japanese Great Wave image.
Photo via Casio
Casio Lineage LCW-M100TS
Leave it to Casio to prove that titanium watches don’t have to be expensive. And by the way, that’s a sapphire crystal. Could this be the highest-value titanium timepiece ever? From the Lineage line, the LCW-M100TS’s satiny dial and applied batons seem a bit Seiko-esque, but the digital display and Multiband 6 moniker are pure Casio, as are the functions fit for an international spy. There’s the auto-calendar that’ll take you all the way to 2099, several timers, 29 time zones, and general adaptability in style, among so many others.
Photo via IWC
IWC × Mercedes AMG PETRONAS Formula One Mark XX
The third model in IWC’s partnership with Mercedes, this instant classic salutes the carmaker’s F1 team, AMG Petronas. Frankly, it’s my very favorite Mark XX. While it’s certainly the perfect timepiece for petrolheads who are also aviation nuts, you don’t have to be either to love it. The Petronas green is like a high-charged Tiffany blue, beautifully stabilized by the matte, textured dial and titanium case. This is an instance in which the luster of stainless steel or a sunray dial simply wouldn’t work. Plus, that five-day power reserve proves that IWC is doing extra-credit work here.
Photo via Venezianico
Venezianico Nereide Titanio
I prefer the Venezianico Nereide Titanio to the stainless steel versions, and it’s not just because it’s 100 meters more water resistant. First, it’s more universal. The glittery Nereide Aureo or the striking Malachite are too loud for certain occasions. However, the Titanio still boasts depth, both in its color and the way the outer track and indices seem to almost hover over the main dial. Second, it’s inspired by Greek mythology, where the word “titanium” originates. As a final example, the hands are skeletonized, unlike the ones on the steel versions. This visual suggestion of titanium’s lightness is subtle but clever.
Photo via Longines
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon
Who doesn’t appreciate it when two underrepresented camps team up? This Longines Ultra-Chron diver is built with titanium and carbon. It comes from Longines’ archives, modeled after the first high-frequency wristwatch from 1968. The use of carbon brings the watch into the 21st century, ensuring it’s more than just a cash-grab remake of an icon. Moreover, the case’s surface is alluringly meteorite-like.
Photo via Zenith
Zenith REVIVAL Shadow
The Zenith REVIVAL Shadow is Brutalist but fun. Prior to the REVIVAL Shadow, Zenith released the stainless steel REVIVAL classic. Whether or not it looks better in shiny steel or titanium is subjective. But, the multi-edged, architectural composition pairs more naturally with the stoney gray titanium. With its 37-millimeter size, the Shadow is like the Batman of watches; it’s quiet but authoritative, grabs attention without begging, and is muscular sans the meathead factor.
Photo via Tudor
Tudor Pelagos 39
The Tudor Pelagos 39 is a lot of people’s favorite titanium watch, for good reason. Everything about it makes sense. Historically, the go-to everyday timepiece for men was always something tool-like but wearable. With the Pelagos 39, Tudor successfully modernizes those concepts. The case is big but not monstrous, subtle, and, of course, strong yet lightweight. It’s basically inoffensive contemporary masculinity in a watch. This COSC-certified diver is handsome, well-built, and not braggadocious.
Photo via Lorus
Lorus Field Watch RG877CX9
From its tightly-woven, military green nylon strap to its cream 24-hour dial, the Lorus RG877CX9 is a quintessential field model. Style-wise, this is an easy buy for trench watch lovers, thanks to that sub-$100 price tag. It’s a bit infamous, but let’s be real. If you want grade 5 titanium and a nuclear lume, you’ll have to pay at least five times as much as you would here.
Photo via Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto Blue
There’s really nothing out there like the Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto Blue. The tonneau case and cushion bezel mix hard with soft, retrofuturism with modernity, and opulence with brawn. It’s also your best, if not only, option for a luxury integrated sport watch from an independent brand. Fortunately, it’s a good option. The bold silhouette is matched by the dial’s powdery gradient blue, Assegai hands, and Laurent Ferrier’s second-ever automatic movement, one attractive enough to warrant an exhibition caseback.
Photo via Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko Snowflake SBGA211
The SBGA211, endearingly dubbed The Snowflake because of its ethereal dial, is Grand Seiko’s local sweetheart. Everything you want from the brand is in this watch. The handcrafted design is inspired by the very surroundings of the artisans’ studio, which include the often snowy Hotaka Mountains in Japan’s Nagano Prefecture. It runs on the flagship Spring Drive, which combines quartz accuracy with mechanical torque, a caliber that can only be achieved by a watchmaker that’s mastered both mechanical and electronic movements.
Photo via Casio
G-Shock MRGB2100D-1A
This year, it seems every new line in the functional luxury realm added a titanium option. The MRGB2100D-1A isn’t just a requisite, though. It’s a truly creative application of the alloy, combining Japanese craft with G-Shock’s signature muscular silhouette. A special chemical mixture provides a platinum-like gleam, which is enhanced due to the fact all 27 interlocked pieces are individually polished. The case is built using Japanese kigumi, the art of fitting objects together without nails. This maximizes the amount of light that can hit the inner solar panels.
Photo via CItizen
Citizen Premier Attesa
In 1970, Citizen released the X-8 Chronometer, the first-ever titanium watch. Today, the brand continues to innovate in the space. Citizen’s Super Titanium is treated for extra scratch and rust resistance, with a surface five times harder than stainless steel. Despite that, this new satellite-timekeeping Attesa is light on the wrist. Straight from the future, it has the fastest satellite signal reception in the world. It’s a high-value luxury offering, perfect for lovers of integrated sport watches, futuristic styles, and high-functioning EDC.
