On a seemingly ordinary Thursday night, I headed to a whisky tasting at Centurion New York. Amex lounges for Centurion cardholders are usually airport-based, but this member’s club sits high above Manhattan at One Vanderbilt. Immediately, the glistening 55th-floor space dazzled me. I was kindly invited to try variations from The Glenrothes, and I simply don’t turn down scotch.
On Top of the World
I stepped out of the elevator into a chic, dim hallway with an absurdly detailed, close-up view of the Empire State Building. Remarkably, because of the artful window design, the building appears to get further away from you as you walk towards it. As I toured through the Centurion (which consists of the buzzy Salon, the stylishly relaxed Studio, and the art-filled Gallery), I realized something. Between the cutting-edge design, stately vibe, and stunning views, you really feel as if you’re at the center of the universe here—a very New York sensation. What better place to taste some top-notch whisky?
A Vision of Elegance
We tasters were fortunate enough to be joined by Laura Rampling, the Master Whisky Maker at The Glenrothes, who came all the way from Scotland for the event. Overall, I found the whiskies graceful yet strong, and pleasingly smooth. From Laura’s perspective, the quality that separates The Glenrothes from other whiskies is elegance. She even served us the base character, a high-end moonshine of sorts, and the uncasked flavor still exhibited a delicate, bright fruitiness.
Laura does her work in Scotland’s Speyside region, and The Glenrothes distillery is hidden in a glen to which no road signs point. There, the spring water is exceptionally soft—even softer than the water Macallan uses, says Laura. It boasts low mineral content, while the bedrock serves as a natural filter. That means the distillery doesn’t even need to put the water through a filtration system. Laura personally inspects every single commissioned cask, ensuring that only the best get through. American oak casks are used to add sweetness, toffee, and vanilla elements (which Laura tells me come from their looser grain). After that, European casks are used to add structure.
Each whisky I tried that evening was sophisticated but easy to love, flavorful but not meaty. In all the years I’ve been enjoying a daily 6 o’clock scotch, The Glenrothes is certainly the most elegant one I’ve experienced.
Now, if you want to try The Glenrothes but aren’t a Centurion cardholder, you have some options. You can either make a month-out reservation for their Bouloud-commanded restaurant via Resy, or just order a bottle of The Glenrothes and sip at home. Here’s what you can expect from the variations I tried.
Photo by SonoVisuals
The Vibrant Glenrothes 18
Laura was kind enough to sign a bottle of the 18 for me, and I’ve been sipping this lush whisky almost every night since. The sweet but gentle fragrance complements the delicate spice that lightly dances on your tongue. There’s also an undertone of creamy vanilla that grounds the sweet ginger and pear flavors. Laura mentioned that whisky grows up a lot in year 18; it’s a moment when more developed qualities surface. If you like a lively yet balanced finish of sweet, spice, and pepper, the 18-year is the scotch for you.
The Rich Glenrothes 25
The best words I can use to describe The Glenrothes 25 are dimensional, ripe, and full of character. It’s as smoothly layered as a balanced, flavorful cocktail, but you can pour it right out. I imagine it would pair beautifully with cheeses and meats. The aroma is nutty and gently woody, while the palate is silky and toasty, a mix of vanilla cream, fruit, almonds, and chocolate. And as the product description says, it has a persistent fragrance.
Photo by SonoVisuals
The Exclusive Glenrothes 32
I had the privilege of sipping the 32 at Centurion, a whisky available only to private clients and select partners. It’s a testament to the transportive flavors Glenrothes offers. Laura designed the 32 in honor of John Smith, The Glenrothes distillery manager from 1897 to 1929. The taste of stewed plums and cherries, toffee, and a hint of Earl Gray transport you to a kitchen in 19th-century Scotland, where fruits are stewing, and a pot of fresh tea sits on the table.
