Laphroaig has been making Scotch on the Isle of Islay since 1815, which means they’ve had a long time to figure out how to describe what their whisky tastes like. Medicinal peat, iodine, a little seaweed, bandages if you want to be dramatic about it. The vocabulary is well-established. So when they send a 14-year-old, Oloroso sherry cask-finished expression out into the world with Willem Dafoe’s face on it—maybe you’ve heard of him. The Lighthouse, Platoon, a little movie called Spider-Man (2002)—that’s the whole bit.
Naturally, that whisky is called Willem by Willem. Developed alongside senior whisky maker Sarah Dowling, Willem by Willem runs hot at 53.7% ABV, and hits shelves in mid-June with an SRP of $156. It’s the second release in Laphroaig’s ongoing collaboration with the four-time Academy Award nominee.
Photo via Suntory Global Spirits
So here’s the contest, the kicker, the Willem of it all. When the bottle hits shelves in June, Laphroaig will open a submission window for consumers to write their own tasting notes. Best submission wins a role alongside Dafoe in his next short film with the brand. Right now, the window closes August 2, so get your pen ready by then.
A select lucky few got a chance to try it. Including me.
It’s a peaty whisky for sure, but don’t let that stop you. The strong nose and flavor make for a powerful first impression, then the sherry cask will show up and greet you on a second and third (and fourth) sip. There is a hint of sweetness there, but you get the peat up front. Then it’s soft stone fruit flavors, a brush of heat, a little mystery. First and foremost, this whisky has a very light texture, which means you’ll have to take quite a few tastes before you’re ready to jot down some thoughts. Bummer, I know.
Photo via Suntory Global Spirits
All in all, Willem by Willem is delicious and worth revisiting, even if you’re not sold on the contest. Here’s a cheat sheet for the science behind the flavor. Peat smoke introduces phenolic compounds that bind to the spirit during distillation. Oloroso sherry casks layer in their own chemistry, with oxidized wine notes, dried fruit esters, a little nuttiness from the wood. If you’re going to copy the homework, change it before you submit.
Either way, the words set a frame, and your brain fills it in. Laphroaig is just making the frame-setting participatory, which, incidentally, is a smart move for a category that still has a trust problem with new drinkers who feel like they’re doing it wrong if they don’t catch what the label says.
The practical stuff: 53.7% ABV means you shouldn’t be ashamed to drop in a little water. Not a lot, just a few drops, give it a minute. Higher-proof whisky opens up when it breathes, and the sherry influence will come out cleaner once you’ve knocked the alcohol back a little. Snag a Glencairn if that’s on your bar cart, or pivot to a rocks glass if not (neat or one big cube). Skip the tasting notes on the label because, again, there aren’t any.
Photo via Suntory Global Spirits
For those of you literary souls writing a submission, the Oloroso finishing is your friend. Sherry casks on peated Scotch tend toward dark fruit, baking spice, smoke, and something rich and almost savory on the back end. That’s not the answer; Laphroaig isn’t grading on accuracy.
They’re looking for something interesting, and “interesting” in this context probably means specific, confident, and a little unexpected. Think less stuffy wine tasting, more dinner party, or possibly even the iconic “Firefight!” monologue from Boondock Saints. Just saying.
The bottle is available at specialty spirits retailers starting mid-June. Given that this is a limited edition, and given that Dafoe’s last Laphroaig collaboration moved, expect shelf life to be short.
Good luck, drinkers.
