If you view a suit as the requisite dress for weddings, workdays, and funerals, you probably don’t think much about their versatility. This is, indeed, due to the stereotype that suiting is boring. Classic tailoring can feel a little rigid, a little too structured for the everyday guy—and the rules around buttons, lapels, and pockets can be daunting, truth be told.
Luckily for us, the proverbial pendulum seems to be swinging to a more casual way of wearing a two-piece. Instead of worrying about a tailored fit, slim fit, or whatever the heck a “modern fit” is, we’re looking for a relaxed silhouette in 2025. But even with more casual fits, there are still a few style rules you’ll want to keep in mind before you purchase your next suit. Keep reading to find out more.
Photo via Buck Mason
A Rise in Relaxation
Whether you blame Covid-19 for a larger waistline, the pandemic shift toward more comfortable clothing, or even Cate Blanchett’s outstanding wardrobe in 2022’s Tár, there has undoubtedly been a steady creep towards more relaxed styles in recent years. The louche shoulders and extra fabric around the ankles doesn’t denote a lack of interest in fashion. In fact, it’s the contrary: it seems everywhere you turn, there’s another actor, model, or influencer showing us how good a loose-fitting suit can look.
This has been especially apparent in the most recent fashion weeks held in Paris and Milan. On the runway, designer Giorgio Armani showed us that roomy trousers and a slouchy jacket have their own elegance to them, not constricted to anachronistic rules that, perhaps, classic tailoring has imposed on men’s style for the past decade or two. From recent runway shows to brands of all pricepoints, we’re seeing more fluid silhouettes reminiscent of the 80’s and 90’s, when suiting allowed for a bit of self-expression. Now, we’re seeing that a perfectly tailored three-piece suit isn’t the only way to look refined and stylish.
Photo via The Row
Rules to Remember
While relaxed suiting generally allows for a more casual approach to one’s wardrobe, it’s still important to think about menswear basics, including fit. Just because your silhouette has been expanded, it doesn’t mean you should opt for a totally shapeless garment. In fact, I’d argue you’re going to have to put in a bit more work to pull off the air of slouchy refinement that a casual suit can do for you.
Most important to note is that a casual suit will have different proportions to a standard, classic suit. What this means is all the extra fabric will run the risk of making you look short. For trousers, this can be an especially frustrating issue, and I’d recommend getting your pants hemmed to hit right at the break of your shoe. This will not only remove excess fabric but also create a clean line to the toe, helping to elongate—even marginally—what could otherwise make your legs look a bit stubby.
The same goes for jackets. The extra fabric can make it look like there might be a few more pounds around your midsection and the looser tailoring can shorten your torso altogether. While this may not be an issue for some guys (and, in fact, can help hide a few pounds too!), it’s good to be aware of. One way to combat this is with a more fitted button-down or sweater underneath, so your natural waist can be seen.
If you’re not ready to fully embrace casual suiting, you can dip your toe in by playing with fabrics. Consider corduroy, a naturally relaxed fabric. Due to the properties of the material, corduroy suits tend to have a little room in and can give you a bit of slouch after a few wears. That’s the real beauty of fabrics like corduroy: they balance structure and ease, giving you a suit that feels effortless while still looking put-together.
Photo via Carter Young
Where to Shop for Your Next Suit
As with anything in menswear, there are undoubtedly price tiers and quality differences to consider when purchasing. If you’re looking to save a bit of money and go for an economical suit, I’d highly recommend Uniqlo’s AirSense suit. It’s reasonably priced, comfortable, and drapes off the body just right. You can also go the Abercrombie route and grab their Collins blazer and corresponding pants. Abercrombie and Fitch’s use of linen, relaxed leg drape, and double-breasted construction all lean into a more casual, relaxed way to dress up.
For pricing around the $1,000-mark, look to designer Carter Young, who is giving a fresh take on classics. With a generous silhouette and a lack of pretension, Carter Young has struck the perfect balance between having a signature style without overdesigning. Similarly priced, but leaning a bit more into the classics, Buck Mason has a wide variety of options—in fact, an entire category on their site is dedicated to “Casual Suiting.”
If you’re ready to invest in a high-end piece, now is the time to look to designers for interesting drapes, voluminous silhouettes, and playful suiting. On and off the runway, the options for a luxury suit that has a more relaxed fit have increased over the years. Leading the pack are Lemaire, Stoffa, and The Row. (I just have to convince my husband to remortgage the house so I can afford it.) Each of these labels offer incredibly high-quality fabrics and attention to detail while being timeless enough to wear long after the pendulum swings back to a slimmer fit—but, please God, no more skinny jeans.
