Bolzano: The Gateway to the Italian Dolomites

I’ve been all over Italy, more times than I could possibly count (my guess is, I’ve returned at least 50 times throughout my life), and yet, I only just visited Bolzano this past June.

Bolzano is the gateway to the Italian Dolomites in the Trentino region. After a few fun-packed days of attending TRUE Dolomites, a travel trade show that saw no bounds (at one point, fake snow shot out of a machine at a nightclub in the Dolomites, but I digress), I headed to Bolzano for a few days to relax. Little did I know, I was in for yet another adventure, one that would be filled with sparkling white wine, Italian mummies, and possibly the best hotel I’ve ever stayed at.

So, buckle up babe, because you’re going to Bolzano.

This is probably the most important question we’ll address here today. Why Bolzano? When there’s Rome, Florence, Milan, Naples, Palermo? Well, that’s kind of the point. The Italian Dolomites see only a fraction of tourism as the rest of the country. It’s estimated that approximately 90,000 Americans visit the region per year. In 2023, 7.5 million American tourists visited Italy as a whole. You do the math.

Bolzano is one of two major cities in the Dolomites region, with the other being Trento. The Dolomites are more so known for their rugged nature and beauty, with ample hiking in the summer and steep slopes for the colder months. Because of that, no one really thinks to spend time in either city, and use it simply as a ground for transport.

“A lot of people just pass through, but it’s actually a great place to slow down and spend time. It blends Italian and Austrian culture in a really genuine way,” Luigi De Santis, Founder & Managing Director of TRUE EVENTS tells me when we speak of Bolzano.

Because of its geographical proximity, Bolzano does indeed have a unique Austro-German feel. Until 1919, this part of Italy was under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and that deep history still lingers today. Most Italians in these parts of town speak German, and that shows on menus, signs, and even in the food and wine. It also appears in the attitude. While Italy is often referred to as warm and relaxed, and while Bolzano does have that Italian charm, it comes with a bit more stoicism and structure.

The coolest thing I saw while there, and what happens to be the biggest attraction in town, can be found at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Let me tell you about Ötzi, a preserved mummy that was discovered by a German couple while hiking in 1991. While the innocent couple didn’t quite know what they had stumbled upon, there’s now an entire museum dedicated to Ötzi. With plenty of research having occurred since the body’s discovery, there’s no shortage of theories circulating, all of which you can read about in the museum. Some of these theories include that he was murdered via being shot by an arrow, because there was an arrow found in his shoulder blade, and that he likely lived at the end of the Stone Age and beginning of the Metal Age, roughly 5,300 years ago. So, if you’re ever wondering how cold some of the hikes in the region are, know that it’s cold enough to preserve a body for over 5,000 years.

Piazza Walther, or Waltherplatz in German, is the main city square. Here, you’ll find plenty of bars and cafes with the natural backdrop of the region’s mountains. And in just 12 minutes, you can take a cable car up to Ritten for a day of hiking some of the commune’s 180+ miles of trails.

The Trentino region’s cuisine is highly reflective of its proximity to Austria, its history, and its terrain. You didn’t really go to Bolzano if you didn’t try speck Alto Adige, the smoked ham from the region. Canaderli is Italy’s version of Austrian knödel. They’re bread dumplings, usually mixed with speck and cheese. Apples in this part of Italy are some of the sweetest and crispest on the planet, with popular varieties including Stark Delicious, Royal Gala, and Golden Delicious. Franziskaner Bäckerei is a bakery near the city center that serves up apple strudel that’s so delicious (and popular), it’s often sold out by noon.

Wirtshaus Vögele serves up typical food of the region, like schnitzel, fried potato tarts, and risotto with seasonal ingredients, and has been recognized by the MICHELIN guide with a Bib Gourmand award. Bib Gourmand signals that a restaurant offers hearty, quality food at an affordable fare, and that’s exactly what Wirtshaus Vögele does.

Then, there’s the wine. The wine of Alto Adige is some of the country’s best. Wines like Lagrein and Gewürztraminer are commonly produced in the area, and you’d be remiss to not pay a visit to Kettmeir for a tasting. If you have the time to spare, head to Baita Daniel Hütte, a restaurant located about one hour outside of the city with a wine cellar featuring more than 1,000 labels from the area.

Perhaps the greatest highlight of Bolzano is where you’ll be sleeping. Castel Hörtenberg. Set inside a renovated 16th century Renaissance castle, this five-star property, which is the only of that ranking in the entire city, showcases the unique Oltradige style, blended with Gothic elements and Tuscan Renaissance flair. 

The gate to enter the property leads you down a row of white hydrangeas, manicured boxwood bushes, statues, jasmine, and cypress trees before reaching the front doors. Upon entering, you’ll be brought to a more contemporary setting thanks to the artistic visions of Anna Podini, who oversaw the renovation of the property.

Castel Hörtenberg has an outdoor pool with plenty of sunbeds to lounge in, along with the Hörtenberg Spa Experience, offering an array of body and facial treatments. 

Upon entering the hotel, I immediately felt a sense of relaxation wash over me, and when I got to my Loft Suite on the fourth floor, I think I cried a little. There was an infrared sauna in my room, which, after the three day TRUE DOLOMITES event was much needed for recovery purposes, but I can imagine that amenity is just as helpful after a long day of hiking, skiing, or even walking the town. The loft suite came at 720 square feet and offered compelling views of the city’s mountainous surroundings every time I peaked out my window. If you want to really go for the gold, opt for the Stube suite.

The dining onsite made me seldom go into town for meals, and I had a taglioni with miso, butter, and truffle that is in the top three things I ate all year from Le Segrete, the main restaurant onsite. Breakfast was laid out buffet style every morning, but not in the metal heated tins you’d find at an American hotel. Instead, start your days with a plethora of cheese and cured meats, yogurt, fresh fruit, and plenty of sweet pastries and savory breads. Amplifying all of the hotel’s dining experiences are wines from Ampelaia, a Tuscan winery in the Alta Maremma region. Better yet, swing by the hotel’s designated cocktail bar, Le Meridiane, with renowned mixologist Oscar Quagliarini slinging drinks.

I visited Bolzano in the summer, and can confirm it’s a lovely time to do so. But my goal is to return in the winter, specifically December. Bolzano is home to the largest Christmas market in the country, and has been properly dubbed the “Christmas capital of Italy.” So, see you there with a spiked hot chocolate.

Winter is also prime for skiing, and there are fewer better places in the world for doing such than the Italian Dolomites. Should you choose to visit the Dolomites for whatever reason, there is a great chance you’ll have to transfer through Bolzano via train or airplane, so you might as well spend at least one night here (though I’d recommend two). And if you are coming in the winter, I’d recommend planning all of your outdoor activities in Alta Badia and Cortina d’Ampezzo. Just don’t forget to partake in some Aprés-ski.

The beauty of Bolzano is you can go with your romantic partner, your parents, your siblings, or, if you want to do as I did, you can go solo. Italy is naturally romantic, and Bolzano really sets the scene with its dramatic landscapes. The walkable city is also family-friendly, where kids and adults alike will enjoy learning about Ötzi. Bolzano’s definitely not for partying and generally gets quiet at night, so don’t try planning something like a bachelor party here. As for solo travelers, don’t think you need to wait on anyone to join you if you’re itching to visit Bolzano. Tables for one are easy to snag, the locals are generally friendly and helpful, and while safety is subjective, I walked back to Castel Hortenberg one night past midnight alone and lived to tell the tale.

There are currently no direct flights from the U.S. to Bolzano. With that being said, you can fly direct to a major city like Rome (FCO) or Milano (MXP) via major airlines such as Delta Airlines, and from there, you can take a connecting domestic flight via SkyAlps. You can also fly from the US into cities such as London, Berlin, Antwerp, Corfu, Ibiza, and various other destinations throughout Europe, and catch a direct flight from there.

As for getting around Bolzano, a car is not necessary for the city. However, if you plan to explore other parts of the Dolomites, the region simply requires having your own set of wheels.